Loony bin and crazy ideas

waxernz

So probably bluetooth or wifi. Bluetooth for example for someone to build a small abv via temp test unit would be relatively cheap. all parts Maybe 20-30 on ebay. Dont know how accurate it would be with such a cheap temp probe. Programing would be mixing display, either 2 line lcd or two led digit plus temperature probe and then multimaping for interpolating points between the curves on the abv vs temp chart. And then the bluetooth or wifi for sending data stream to pc software. With a micro controller you could have an extra display or a button you press to swap between values ie show temp in Fahrenheit or Celsius.

I like the idea of adding the display rather than relying on the software only to display. Especially for the budget minded and upgradability. Plus cost of displays is only a few dollars. I think I have an arduino temperature sensor of some sort in my kit. Ill take a look and see what is involved in making a small example minus the bluetooth with some fake values thrown in. Keep it simple as my first project. Get the fake alcohol value of my hand vs air temp. I dont have bluetooth module but I could try assuming I can get that going to data log via the usb.

Most cheaper sensors are not accurate enough to measure movement of an alcometer from what I have read. For example Even if they have resolution of 1mm, the accuracy might be 5mm. If you could get a magnet inside the meter you could add hall sensors(im not sure how accurate they are either) up the side of parrot assuming the distance isnt to much or metal doesn't interfere. Reading a thread on arduino forums about measuring a hydrometer that is what they came up with based of expensive commercial product but the magnet inside float and programming interaction between multiple sensors as it rose put them off.

Surely doing it by vapour temp at least as a test for now is cheapest and easiest to program option. At least for now I could learn how to make something that is useful even if not for originally intended use.

I see there are wireless arduino pid controlers for beer makers with data logging. And examples of Temperature data loggers etc. I might start looking at theirs to see how done.

lowball

Has any body seen this electronic hydrometer (http://www.thebeerbug.com/gettingStarted/)?

waxernz

Wonder what sensor they are using. They are using the same idea pointed out earlier in thread using pressure pressing up. They have replaced hydrometer with their own float though. Their how to has a sensor blade as they call it so I assume its some sort of flex sensor?

punkin

Difference tween a wash hydrometer and an alcometer is the hydrometer has a linear scale.

lowball

Since the output would be voltage, a calibration scale should be programmable.

Myles

Low volume sprayball / spray wand. Lloyd did you ever get the chance to see if this was a viable option.

A straight perforated spray wand might be easier to have made than a mini-ball. It also has the option that it can be fitted and removed from the column quite easily.

Could possibly use the same size fitting port as is being planned for the thermowells. Interchangeable thermowell and CIP spray wand!! ;)

irishman

Just curious what the application is for the "mini" spray ball? There are some small ones that currently exist for decent prices out there.

Lloyd

I'm only now experimenting with a small spray ball, it should arrive in two weeks.
I tried one about 3 years ago and it didn't work, maybe the ball was defective or I just didn't have enough water pressure in my eight floor apartment, not sure. But going to try again.

Also, @CothermanDistilling suggested SS flexible pipe with triclamp ends and I'm going to pursue it. That would allow me to mount my product condenser to the wall and still be able to compensate for different column configurations. We'll see.

Lloyd

Thinking about a Spirit Safe. It ain't easy but can be possible.

Obviously I don't have all the parts yet to get it figured out...
This project is background noise that rattles around in my brain from time to time. Gonna crack this nut someday, really. Won't be soon but nothing SD happens really fast usually. When I get this far things do seem to happen though.

Imagine the glass about 3 times taller. Add a few custom fittings and gaskets.

Myles

@irishman said: Just curious what the application is for the "mini" spray ball? There are some small ones that currently exist for decent prices out there.

Clean in place using low pressure water from the mains or a pump. Some of the available ones are intended for high pressure use. Not sure how well they would work at low pressure.

It might be useful to be able to remove it without taking the column to bits.

irishman

@Myles So are you putting one mini-spray ball in each column section? Not trying to criticize. Just trying to wrap my mind around the process.

I use a spray ball on my fermenter, and love it. However, I haven't figured out a way to make it work on a column with plates installed. I guess you could mount it on a large tri-clamp cap and replace the window on the front of your dash with this spray ball for each section to make it work...is that your method?

irishman

Also, spray balls aren't meant to clean via pressure per se. They're meant to spread out your cleaning agent without having to fill the area with your water and/or cleaner. So as long as you get decent coverage you don't need high pressure. I use a march AC-5b pump to power my spray ball with a hot caustic solution on my stainless fermenter and it does a fine job. Not sure how the smaller march pump would do with it but my spray ball is 1.5" in diameter and there are 1" spray balls out there. I'm spraying a ~20" wide fermenter offset from one side and get full coverage.

CothermanDistilling

I wanted a 135 degree fitting... I have a lot of respect and sympathy for the grinders and polishers at Lloyds factories...

Myles

I am intending to go much smaller - less than 1/2". :))

My column is hexagonal and is the equivalent area to a 5" dia column. I am building it in 3 plate sections and am intending to use 2 sections, with probably 5 plates in total.

I have partially built 1 section so far and am putting double sight glasses in each section - a 2" compression in the back to let light in and a 3" SD SGK in the front.

Each chamber is also getting a temperature probe and a CIP wand. The small compression fittings required to install them are soldered into the column wall.

I am also fitting external valves so that I can disable each plate individually.

Bubble caps will be special (as yet un-published) versions that will incorporate plate drain facility to work in conjunction with the plate disable valves.

CothermanDistilling

@Myles - that'll be cool... steampunk!

CothermanDistilling

I think a 3/4 TC mini sprayball would rock... have the ball head fit inside the largest 3/4" TC ferrule (the 19mm one), to be able to insert the spray ball from the outside.. use pipe that fits snugly inside the 12.8mm pipe of the smallest 3/4" TC ferrule, have the 15-17mm spray ball welded on the end, and then have it welded inside a short 12.8 straight or 90 pipe...

Smaug

I'm thinking a mini sprayball welded to a 1.5 end cap on the inward side of the end cap. Then a 3/4" x 19mm ferrule welded to the outside to accommodate a sanitary valve (or the like).

Then clamp off to a 1.5 x 38mm ferrule welded to the side of the tee.

grim

Why not just use an outside mount triclamp spray ball? They make them in .5/.75 mini-TC and 1" TC and larger. A number of manufacturers even make them in a number of lengths (deep vs shallow).

Just weld the TC ferrule to the column and you have the ability to break down and clamp off if necessary. You need to be able to remove the sprayball in the future, the rotating ones may clog up and fail to spin.

Fits into the whole "modular" approach, and it is easy to break down, clean, repair, without much fuss.

For reference:

http://www.glaciertanks.com/Spray_Balls_TriClamp-TriClamp_Mini_Spray_Ball_1_Thru_Wall_Revolving.html

irishman

@grim My thoughts exactly.

You'd need one for each plate though...correct? I guess i'm still struggling to understand the draw.

For the boil container I understand it...the column seems more difficult to work right though. And once you get enough flow through the spray ball...is the plate going to be able to drain that much liquid as fast as you're pumping it in?

CothermanDistilling

a 1.5 end cap would seem to be good for a 16" or bigger column, I think 3/4 is more appropriate to spray an area that is really less than one cubic foot is size... here is what @Smaug is describing... I say make the ball and tube a bit smaller and change the end cap in the middle to a 3/4...

Lloyd

@CothermanDistilling, another good idea from you. I've ordered a sample 2" 135 degree bend and expect the price to be about the same as a 180 bend.

Smaug

@CothermanDistilling said: a 1.5 end cap would seem to be good for a 16" or bigger column, I think 3/4 is more appropriate to spray an area that is really less than one cubic foot is size... here is what Smaug is describing... I say make the ball and tube a bit smaller and change the end cap in the middle to a 3/4...

No argument here. That pic illustrates exactly what I was conceptually picturing pretty much.

grim

Out of context, that photo might get you some odd looks, don't ask me how I know.

Smaug

@grim said: Out of context, that photo might get you some odd looks, don't ask me how I know.

LoO will likely be along shortly to not exersize restraint.

dad

I just saw a thread about alcohol enemas...

Lloyd

An easy way to get higher proof alcohol. This really works well.

Take a SD DragonFire alcoholmeter and slip 2 or 3 flat washers over the smaller glass tube, they should be SS for safety, and put it back into your parrot.
Using this method I've increased my %ABV from 84% to 102%.
Amazing!!

cunnyfunt

What size washers? I'm at the hardware store atm

Lloyd

The inner hole is about 8mm and OD is 16mm.
I seem to get higher ABV with the thicker washers.

cunnyfunt

You're a legend Lloyd lol

Myles

Lloyd do you think there would be interest in a beefed up version of the SGK in stainless steel. However with BOTH sections split.

That way it could be used as an alternative to a tri-clamp for those folks that wish to bolt their columns together.