@Kapea said:
I have surfed triple overhead sized faces. Even that is too big for me now. It hurts too much when they catch you.
Yeah I think that 3XOH size range is the most fun too. We only get swells in the 12m/20sec range here, so nothing like the north shore but enough to get your attention, and we try to surf everything. Scored a swell pulse last time I went to Hawaii, it got to 9', I really enjoyed surfing somewhere where the paddle was reasonable.
Screwing around on my longboard last week on a 3' day.
The north shore of Oahu when it's breaking is like grand central station. It's tough to find a spot to park your car, much less a spot in the line up.
There are lots of other breaks in the islands that mostly only locals know about. There is a HUGE break about a mile outside of the Hilo Bay breakwater that is a tow-in break. 30-50 ft. faces. I've only seen that one going off once in the last twenty years. Only the old guys knew about it. The young guys caught on quick. Way too big and too far out for me. I watched with binoculars from shore.
Our main issue here is being able to get out. It is similar to Mexico with mainly sandy beach breaks, so you just have to find a rip and knock yourself out. I have seen videos of the crowds that you guys put up with, I'm morning crew so we surf in pairs. A big crowd for us would be 10 guys, however most of the winter we just surf in pairs. Then there are more remote spots.
Unfortunately our geology is not conducive to points or bommies. There are some but they are not worth the effort, so quite a few really big clean swells go largely unridden except for a few lucky lads with jet skis. Our laws mean they have to jump off the passenger seat rather than using a rope if there are other surfers.
There is a really laid back cruisy vibe in the water and we have a really good batch of groms coming through ATM. Most of the Aussie WSL competitors live within a couple of hrs or so from my place. :D
@FullySilenced said:
And about 89.7% of the worlds large great white sharks live close by as well... or so i hear
Crack me up FS. True that.
I had a month off work in 07 after I got attacked. I figure I've had my turn so I often surf on my own before dawn.
Curious feeling being eaten, dunno anything else quite like it :)
Thing about Roos that always made me laugh is you can fill the mongrel with lead (we used to cull them - I joined part time) and they'll run until they run out of blood. Shoot them in the face and they'll drop and moan about it...
I wasn't a very good shot in the beginning... became our defense - punch them hard in the noggen and you can take off...
Didn't do it for long, not being a good enough shit meant they weren't clean kills...
Bloke once told me the story of how he beat Eddie Charlton. Eddie used to do shows all over where he'd challenge (and beat) the best of the locals at the end. Well this guy was a bit of a shark he said when he was younger and the local snooker club put him up to be the challenger.
Just before the match was about to start, he said 'Hey Eddie, did i show you where the horse bit me?"
So he turns his back and peels his shirt off the back of his shoulder. Eddie comes up for a look and old mate cups Eddies balls in his upturned hand and gives a good feel.
Eddie jumps back all disconcerted, as you would, calling him a dirty bastard etc.
Turns out he never got his composure back from that and old mate beat him in the match right after.
a 16 footer dang it man would have had a poop screen around me i think.... diving in the gulf saw a couple 8 footers and i thought they looked as big as submarines at the time...
Comments
You might change your mind on Sat morning. 30's in my neck of the woods
Yeah I think that 3XOH size range is the most fun too. We only get swells in the 12m/20sec range here, so nothing like the north shore but enough to get your attention, and we try to surf everything. Scored a swell pulse last time I went to Hawaii, it got to 9', I really enjoyed surfing somewhere where the paddle was reasonable.
Screwing around on my longboard last week on a 3' day.
The north shore of Oahu when it's breaking is like grand central station. It's tough to find a spot to park your car, much less a spot in the line up.
There are lots of other breaks in the islands that mostly only locals know about. There is a HUGE break about a mile outside of the Hilo Bay breakwater that is a tow-in break. 30-50 ft. faces. I've only seen that one going off once in the last twenty years. Only the old guys knew about it. The young guys caught on quick. Way too big and too far out for me. I watched with binoculars from shore.
I'm more like I am now than I was before.
Our main issue here is being able to get out. It is similar to Mexico with mainly sandy beach breaks, so you just have to find a rip and knock yourself out. I have seen videos of the crowds that you guys put up with, I'm morning crew so we surf in pairs. A big crowd for us would be 10 guys, however most of the winter we just surf in pairs. Then there are more remote spots.
Unfortunately our geology is not conducive to points or bommies. There are some but they are not worth the effort, so quite a few really big clean swells go largely unridden except for a few lucky lads with jet skis. Our laws mean they have to jump off the passenger seat rather than using a rope if there are other surfers.
There is a really laid back cruisy vibe in the water and we have a really good batch of groms coming through ATM. Most of the Aussie WSL competitors live within a couple of hrs or so from my place. :D
And about 89.7% of the worlds large great white sharks live close by as well... or so i hear
Happy StillingDay
FS
Vodka anyone??
Crack me up FS. True that.
I had a month off work in 07 after I got attacked. I figure I've had my turn so I often surf on my own before dawn.
Curious feeling being eaten, dunno anything else quite like it :)
I didn't know that Rossco, tell me the story if you can.
Did you do a Fanning and punch the fuck out of it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QoF8BtCSMEo
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Why are you allowed to punch a shark in the nose but not a roo the that wants to kick the shit out of you?
Sharks are less cute.
I don't care if you punch a roo. Watched a guy box an emu once.
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Thing about Roos that always made me laugh is you can fill the mongrel with lead (we used to cull them - I joined part time) and they'll run until they run out of blood. Shoot them in the face and they'll drop and moan about it... I wasn't a very good shot in the beginning... became our defense - punch them hard in the noggen and you can take off...
Didn't do it for long, not being a good enough shit meant they weren't clean kills...
I was talking about that facade book video that was floating around.
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Yeah it grabbed me and I hit it out of sheer terror. Don't think heroics, think running and screaming. Drove me-self to the hospital n all.
Had to have been an OH SHIT moment though...
Great story. Beats the time i squared off with the World Heavyweight Champ for 3 rounds.
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Bugger that.
I'm in Priscilla.
Bloke once told me the story of how he beat Eddie Charlton. Eddie used to do shows all over where he'd challenge (and beat) the best of the locals at the end. Well this guy was a bit of a shark he said when he was younger and the local snooker club put him up to be the challenger.
Just before the match was about to start, he said 'Hey Eddie, did i show you where the horse bit me?"
So he turns his back and peels his shirt off the back of his shoulder. Eddie comes up for a look and old mate cups Eddies balls in his upturned hand and gives a good feel.
Eddie jumps back all disconcerted, as you would, calling him a dirty bastard etc.
Turns out he never got his composure back from that and old mate beat him in the match right after.
And that's how he beat Eddie Charlton.
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Great white shark encounter gets Kalgoorlie filmmaker's adrenalin pumping @ ABC News
How this guy keeps his cool is absolutely beyond me. I was breathing heavy watching the video. You may not want to watch Rossco.
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Is there even such a thing as a not large great white?
I've never met a pointer face to face, but I have swum with tigers on more than one occasion. Definitely an `okole squeezer every time.
I'm more like I am now than I was before.
Its not like he was gonna be able to get away. No way I could have done that.
a 16 footer dang it man would have had a poop screen around me i think.... diving in the gulf saw a couple 8 footers and i thought they looked as big as submarines at the time...
Did ya read the story, said he was testing his theory that sharks didn't actually want to eat him. :))
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Stone Brewery, Escondido
I'm more like I am now than I was before.
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The In-laws?
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