DIY Power Controller

Brewhaha

@dellae - 100A / 2200 w??? math does not add up... does 22000 w as listed in the specs or is it a typo ? Thanks to every ones input I feel prepared to give it a go hopefully the wiring diagram I found on google is correct. When all the bits have arrived I will build the kit give it a test run and report back.

I have another basic question in regards to a AC 110-240V to DC 5V 10W Regulated Switching Power Supply Converter Transformer to run a cooling fan for the controller, specs of transformer and cooling fan below:

Input:  AC 110-240V 47-63Hz
Output: 5V 2A
Power:  10W
        DC 5V 0.2A Brushless Cooling Fan

Will the fan be compatible with the transformer.

Cheers

dellae

Yes that is compatible - plenty of spare capacity in the power supply (x10). You could run upto 10 of those fans off that supply - although I would only do 8 for safety.

In terms of specs for the meter - don't worry about it, it has plenty of spare range even allowing for the oddball numbers.

Brewhaha

@dellae said: Yes that is compatible - plenty of spare capacity in the power supply (x10). You could run upto 10 of those fans off that supply - although I would only do 8 for safety.

In terms of specs for the meter - don't worry about it, it has plenty of spare range even allowing for the oddball numbers.

Thanks for confirming that, for anther 10 dollars it might be a good insurance with the hot summer temps where I live.

Cheers ;)

dellae

You definitely need a fan even with a big heatsink. Temperatures above 25C shorten the life of most electronics.

Brewhaha

I have ordered a fan and found a couple of ordering mistakes I made on extra parts. I paid $40 for a 15 amp extension lead only to find it was rated to 2400 watts. I took it back and got a $26 3600 watt 15 amp lead from Masters. I think I ordered the wrong switch so I ordered what I think is the right one for the job. I have a diagram with hopefully how I should wire it up.

So if there is some error in it I'm hoping that I can get guidance to overcome the mistakes or better solutions. Thanks to everyone's input in guiding me through the process. Cheers

fadge

On the phone can't really see all, will post when on pc. Then we can ensure your on the right track.

Littlechicago

Could one put a 120v rocker switch with indicator light on the input lead of the Pot as an extra safety ? this would be in addition to an emergency shutoff. Lighted rocker would just be a reminder that the controller is on.

fadge

In AU better make that a 240v indicator switch. I used one on mine, easy to see power is on, then l have a meter and a yellow "element on" light as well.

Fadge

Brewhaha

O.K. thanks for the suggestions and thanks to all the members previous input... so the wiring is good to go ? The switch has a light in the on position. So I'll put an inline indicator light to show main power is active. I'll post some shots of the completed controller. Cheers

brewsmith

Which switch did you end up getting? I am looking for a lighted switch also

Brewhaha

got the switch and indicator light on eBay the DPDT 250V 18 amp $4 + $2 for the indicator. They come in about 4 different colours, green ,blue, red and yellow.

applepie

Brewhaha good find. Got a link for it?

Brewhaha

Switch

Indicator Light

They are now $4.45 as the special discount is over =))

fadge

I would change the mains switch wiring. You don't appear to have a basic on/off switch, (except the power point) it will catch you out one day. imo have both live leads switched, so off is really off and on lighted switch shows mains on. Use a second switch for ssr/bypass control, indicator lights could also be used, perhaps red(hot) for bypass orange or green for controlled.

I'm sure other members will add advice as well.

fadge

Brewhaha

@fadge ***** Just check your parts when they turn up, I ordered sockets like your pics, but on arrival they where stamped 10amp not 15amp and honestly cheap crap- I got a refund and never used them, 3 weeks for nothing.

HMMM you don't need to guess what my power outlets are (:| they finally arrived and are stamped 15amp with 10amp earth pin size cheap crap. Oh well my box will accommodate a standard wall outlet so I'll just use one of those and that can be another switch to the direct element circuit.

punkin

It might be worth going to your local electrical outlet and let one of the guys there show you some stuff. Go in the back entrance where the tradies go and ask for trade price. They are usually more than willing to give you best price.

hillbillyray

Haves any one wired up diy control box for a120 volt

Lloyd

Hi @hillbillyray hoping someone here chimes in to help you.
I cannot because my power is 220 volts or so on one wire like most countries outside of North America.
My understanding is the 120v hot wire will go through the SSR and the neutral wire will connect to the other pin on your element. The earth, or ground, wire should still find its way to connect to the body of your boiler for safety. The only real change is that you'd need a different potentiometer. That info, I think, is buried somewhere in this long thread so you'd need to read through the whole thing again or with luck someone here will offer up the information.

SeanGC

I'm still having trouble locating a 100k 1W pot for my 110v control panel for a reasonable price. Has anyone found one that works well with this cp build?

Manofconstantsorrow

@SeanGC look here; 100K 1W Linear Taper Pots with DPST switch. Lot of 8 @ eBay

CothermanDistilling

anyone ever think about using a dual or triple pot and find them in the correct specs?

captainshooch

@CothermanDistilling , PM sent.

CothermanDistilling

naaah, this kind of dual or triple... to control multiple elements at one time

Series KKK Potentiometer - Carbon Composition Element @ Potentiometers.com

I sent them a price request for 10 with 500k/500k/500k

Topshot

Am I right in thinking that in the UK the DIY controller can be wired up as per instructions in the pdf?

Obviously different coloured wires.

Topshot

All Wired up and works a treat.

I have a 3kw heater, is that too much to run the DIY controller at over 75% without a fan?

SDeurope

@Topshot said: I have a 3kw heater, is that too much to run the DIY controller at over 75% without a fan?

We generally recommend using a fan, but it depends on the box + number & placement of vent holes as well. You could attach a temp probe to the heatsink and have a look what it does.

Topshot

@SDeurope - Thanks

Unsensibel

@Topshot said: I have a 3kw heater, is that too much to run the DIY controller at over 75% without a fan?

I run my 5.5kW with an oversized heatsink and SSR passive with plenty of venting holes without issues

Anavrin

This is not exactly DIY build more off the shelf but you still need to connect the power cables yourself, it's what I've been using for 2 or 3 years now, originally for my home brew then more recently for my still, it UK so it's rated at 230v and 25A, it can handle twice the power of my 3kw element and has worked flawlessly, I can highly recomend one.

AVR-25 - 230v (c/w knob & fascia dial)

They also make a 110v version

AVR-25 - 110v (c/w knob & fascia dial)

SDeurope

With the main difference that such an AVR costs a multiple of our DIY Controller Kit. ;)

We already had inquiries about ready to use controllers, and it's something we are going to look into as well.

For now our DIY Controller Kit is a great option, and it really is very easy to assemble, but of course we have to give the advice that such works should be left to an experienced electrician anyway.