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can someone point me in the way of the wiring diagram for the diy controller as its not on the website anymore?
Just be aware with that diagram, that the SSR does not have a Neutral connection as it shows above. Connection 1 that says neutral is actually the input active wire from the switch, and the connection 2 is accurate as being the active connection to the load. If you are going to get one wired up, please get an electrician to do it. A slight error can have the metallic surface of the keg "LIVE" and electricity does not offer many chances, if at all.
I better remove it...
We need to be careful what instructions we post here, I'm hesitant to give advise publicly in case someone is injured!
If in doubt always consult a qualified electrician. and please have a safety switch installed in your meterbox.
The DIY kit is basic and assumes the purchaser will know that they are doing.
In AUS we have a M.E.N.S system (multiple earth neutral) so we need to switch the active not neutral.
However, I did find the following info:
I am in the process of converting from gas to electric. I understand what you are doing on the controller. I have a LED digital meter and a 110 to I think 12 or 9 volts. I think the volt ring goes between the Load 2 and the element. I prob can figure it out but would appreciate an experts opinion.
Some digital volt meters may not work very well, as you are not changing the peak voltage comming out, just chopping it up.
Here is the Aussie diagram
Some more good posts...
The Lansey Brothers' Blog
Options for variable power supply for heating element
Phase fired controllers
Modification of an old hot tub to use a digital temperature controller
LOO is correct with digital meters not doing quite so well with the voltage/current readings. I have an analog meter on its way to see how it goes. I am hoping there is enough damping effect in the analog one so it doesn't hunt up and down as the PWM does its thing. It is a basic, cheap and effective way of controlling the power to the element, however, please respect electricity and as LOO said, use a licenced electrician.
can anyone tell me how the heat sink is wired up, thanks
The heat sink isn't wired, you simply screw the really to it but be sure to use some thermal heat sink compound between the heatsink the the relay.
Just finished installing a few analog meters into power controllers. Sadly, they are not damped much at all and fluctuate fairly wildly. It will still give an idea of current anyway, but it does move a lot still
can u post a pic of the meters?
I used a large one like this..... worked great, no jitter
thanks,does the heat sink have to be outside the box.i bought the d i y kit
No, you do need to drill some ventilation holes in the box to allow for airflow
thanks for your help it works great
Hey LOO. Yes, the voltage stays nice and stable, but the current is what is restricted with these circuits and that is what fluctuates. the ammeter i used was this one
AC 0-20A Analog AMP Meter Current Panel Meter Ammeter Gauge 85L1
This was used in a box I built, however, my power controller box has a digital ammeter/voltmeter combo unit in it. This also shows good constant voltage, but current flicker a lot as the PWM does its thing. That meter is one of these
Blue Digital Voltmeter Ammeter AMP Volt Meter Panel + Transformer 300V 50A
yea, those little meters have the tiniest movements in them. 20A without a current transformer?
Yes, 20A without a ct. The digital ones do have a ct included, but too sensitive
I have seen that some peopel use this breaker-switch if they have more than 1pc heater element and whant to controll it with this on-off breaker so the up heating time is less, is this a good on-of breaker?
Leviton 3032-2W White INDUSTRIAL DOUBLE POLE Toggle Wall Light Quiet Switch 30A and is it good for on-of break a 4000watt element with full load-under fully load.....
Leviton AC Switch 3032-2W looks good
And it is wery cheap, if this can "direct shut of" 1pc element op to 5500watt 240 volt under load....
Leviton 3032-2W White INDUSTRIAL DOUBLE POLE Toggle Wall Light Quiet Switch 30A @ ebay
With this simpel and cheap little on-of breaker it is possibel to have more that 1pc heater element and control 1pc with yours variabel cotroller and 1-2pc on-of with this.... Save a lot of upheating time if you have power for it...
This is something that is intressting for me and everyellse that have axess to 3 phase power...
3 Phase 40A SSR
Ok, so I'm looking to buy the DIY controller kit. But I'm wary. What are the specific specs of the SSR? It's advertised as being a phase angle controller, but you provide no way of confirming that, short of ordering the thing and inspecting the SSR when it arrives
It is rated for a 40 amp circut. It works quite well and is the same set up as the the Mulekicker's. I should know. I am the owner of Mule's first two prototypes.
StillDragon North America - Your StillDragon® Distributor for North America
That doesn't answer my question.
the DIY kit advertises as being a phase angle controller. But is it really? I would like the make and model of the SSR, to confirm it
40A ssr, what other specs would you be after? Voltage ratings? Control ratings?
@Jonno, there's more than one kind of SSR. Phase Angle controller is but one of a few different kinds of SSR.
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