DIY Power Controller

gumbah

I am looking at 220V 30A wall switch. I have not found any like the one you pictured that will handle the volts and amps.

Law_Of_Ohms

make sure its 250v AC @ atleast 25A rated

Law_Of_Ohms

Slightly different SSR but...

http://youtu.be/5yWVdmGb960

http://youtu.be/I-1GNUm5rfo

Law_Of_Ohms

Here is one using a mico controller to do PWM.

I don't see why a 555 timer can't be used.

http://youtu.be/eHrI0EKLxtk

CothermanDistilling

I made up 3 nice 555 PWM timers for my brewery controller when the hand-off-auto switch is in the 'hand' position..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4YUM50cpjg

NineInchNails

I was wondering, can I get the length, width and height of the heat sinks?

I will be needing 2 of them. I'm plotting out all my components to see if any of the Still Dragon boxes will work for me. I'm installing a PID & SSR, the Still Dragon DIY Controller parts 2 switches, a 110V to12V transformer, PC fan and an amp meter (or digital volt/amp meter). I'm thinking the SD boxes may be a bit too small for all this stuff.

adiefender

Want to test your layout before cutting things up or create lables? Here is a Free App! Print on regular paper for drill/cut template then print on see through sticker paper and you will have a nice looking front pannel.

adiefender

After reading through all this and then seeing this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yD8jkMEH0_I

How would it get wired? I see the decal saying to keep at 0 when turning off/on. Planing to use the DIY Controller for the Boiler and BIAB.

I'm referring to being able to set the power level of the element down and still use the PID.

Thanks in advance!

NineInchNails

@adiefender, one switch turns the PID on (110V circuit tapped off one leg of the 220V). The PID turns a normal SSR on & off which would turn the heating element on & off. Just on/off control in order to heat up & maintain temp. No variable control of the element in this circuit.

A 2nd switch (220V 30-Amp Double Pole Switch) can be switched on to allow variable control of the element using the StillDragon DIY parts.

It's a work in progress. I'm always changing it as I finalize the overall design. I'M NO ELECTRICIAN so any criticism would be welcomed.

This drawing is for a US 4-wire 220V.

NineInchNails

If I drew this correctly, nothing bad should happen even if both switches are on. If both switches were on then the POT would be trying to do its thing and so would the PID. This condition (both switches on) would not be a desirable, practical or recommended method to run the heating element, but shouldn't harm anything IF it happened on accident.

The PC fan would run when either switch is on. If both switches are off then the fan would be off.

olddog

You could eliminate one of the SSR's by using a PWM control unit instead of a pot connected to a DPDT switch with the feed going to a single SSR 40 DA. this is how I configured the boiler control in my panel.

OD

fadge

@olddog said: You could eliminate one of the SSR's by using a PWM control unit instead of a pot connected to a DPDT switch with the feed going to a single SSR 40 DA. this is how I configured the boiler control in my panel.

OD

If your comfortable with posting your design you have recently shown us you built, I'd be more than interested.

OD is spot on the money when he has said Automation/Semi-automation using pids, valves, temp probes etc is the next step for many of us in distilling at a non commercial level.

Perhaps we need split these threads between US and AU for better clarity in wiring types and get a few circuits drawn up for both, (separate to the basic controller kit most tend to use)?

fadge

CothermanDistilling

If you get a PID with 'manual control', such as an auber, you do not need the variable SSR, the PID lets you use the up and down arrows... not as good as a know, but dirt simple...

Myles

Just for completeness I am going to include my current controller build as it is wired for UK style 240 v single phase.

It is very similar to the DIY kit and just uses an alternative module. This one uses a United Automation PSR-40 (good for 9 kW but) used with 6 kW for longer life.

Rotary 3 phase isolator, no displays as it will be calibrated, and just a simple status indicator light and fuse for the 12 v PSU for the fan. BIG heatsink and fan assisted cooling is necessary at these sort of power levels. Photos to follow.

Lloyd

@Myles said: Photos to follow.

Bring it on, @Myles.
Very interested in this because my power mains are very much like yours and the rest of the world that is outside of North America.

Myles

Here you go @Lloyd. The heavy round cable is 3 x 4mm CSA cores (solid cores), so it should be fine even at full current. Some of the internal cables are 6mm because that is what I had available. I used doubled 2.5 mm cores from the switch to the controller for flexibility, and may do the same on the supply side. The solid cores are usable but not very flexible. I am going to recommend that the user puts in a cooker connector and uses a more flexible cable (even flat twin and earth) from there to the element.

By using a wall box you can build most of the controller out of the box onto the base plate.

The indicator and pot still need to be wired in.

I will calibrate the pot, print out a front panel and then post a picture of the completed front panel later. I have wired the fan and the pot using bullet connectors to make it easier to replace them at a later date.

Front panel is fairly minimal.

captainshooch

@Myles Sweeeet!! Nice job!!

Lloyd

@captainshooch said: Myles Sweeeet!! Nice job!!

I agree. Very nice, Myles. If it works as good as it looks you have a real winner there.

Law_Of_Ohms

where did the "turn to zero before switching on" come from?

I must admit, I never do!

Myles

@Law_Of_Ohms said: where did the "turn to zero before switching on" come from? I must admit, I never do!

:)) Best practice. Avoids occasional power surges that tend to fry things.

Also if you have one of those "Oh Crap!!!" moments and momentarily switch on a dry boiler - which does sometimes happen to the best of us - it protects the element if you are fast enough to turn it off again.

CatfishJim

I may be wrong but don't the center pole on the pot go to the # 3 location on the SSR?

Myles

@CatfishJim said: I may be wrong but don't the center pole on the pot go to the #3 location on the SSR?

It is worth measuring the pot with a meter to be sure. Provided the two terminals you use (centre and 1 end) start at maximum resistance which then decreases as the pot turns clockwise you are using the right pair. It does not really matter which wire is connected to which terminal (3 or 4), provided the correct pair of poles on the pot are used.

NineInchNails

@NineInchNails said: I was wondering, can I get the length, width and height of the heat sinks?

I was notified by @Lloyd that their heatsinks are 5" L x 2.75" W x 2" H

Thanks @Lloyd! Those heatsinks look really handy and priced very well too IMO. I really like that they already have all the mounting holes and are ready to rock. Thanks again!

gumbah

Almost a success, everything worked as it should except for the volt, and amp gauge. It blew up as soon as I turned on the power! This was just a test on the heating element!

Law_Of_Ohms

I hope no animals were harmed in the production of that...

beaberskinner

Does anybody have a clean method for grounding the milkman?

gumbah

All animals are ok, just a cheap eBay amp gauge!!

punkin

@beaberskinner said: Does anybody have a clean method for grounding the milkman?

Staple a rubber strap to his shin that drags on the ground?

Law_Of_Ohms

@beaberskinner said: Does anybody have a clean method for grounding the milkman?

Sit him down and tell him he can't deliver the milk when only your wife is at home....

Milk can? - grounding is done via the element guard kit.

beaberskinner

Thanks for the tip on the milkman I mean milkman.