DIY Power Controller

beaberskinner

Lloyd's post above answered my questions. Thanks I could not seem to find that when I looked.

PopLarkin

Hey EdInNH . Your controller is exactly what I need to run my new rig. Do you have a wiring diagram ??? What element are you running with this controller ?

Cheers Pop

Law_Of_Ohms

See page 1

PopLarkin

Yeah, Iv'e seen the schematics on page one but I want to know how he wired up the bypass/ selector switch !!!!

punkin

@beaberskinner said: I just received my DIY but there was no schematic with it. I would like one for a 5500 watt 220 unit. Is this available?

The StillDragon Operation Manuals

FlyboyTR

Hello,

I am new to this board and recently converted my beer boiler to the Still-Dragon DIY Controller. Previously I was using a large variac to control the 220vac element and a switch to control the 110vac element. I have enjoyed reading every post in this thread; however,I am a bit concerned that the first post (with picture...which is very nice...) is in error and has to potential to burn up some components...or worse. Anyway...

I live in the USA so my diagram is directly related to standard USA wiring. It is wired so that I can still control the small 110vac element separately from the main element (mainly used to assist with initial heat-up). The 220vac element has two switches (one for each hot leg) to allow disconnect of all power to the main element and SSR controller (I know there are DPDT switches available, but I used what I had in the shop). There is a 2or3 way switch that allows switching one leg so the element gets full power (bypassing the SSR), or in the other position; it allows full control of power via the Still Dragon DIY Controller.

Thanks for allowing me to post here and I welcome any input, suggestions and/or constructive criticism of my design.

FlyboyTR :)

Attachment: Still Dragon Controller Wiring Diagram-Instructions (PDF)

punkin

Hi flyboy and thanks for sharing. I'll get our resident electrical engineer to liase with you and one of the members who has the same profession. If there are errors we certainly want to fix them.

Law_Of_Ohms

FlyboyTR said: I am a bit concerned that the first post (with picture...which is very nice...) is in error and has to potential to burn up some components...or worse. Anyway...

what do you think the error is?

FlyboyTR

@Law_Of_Ohms said: "I am a bit concerned that the first post (with picture...which is very nice...) is in error and has to potential to burn up some components...or worse. Anyway..."

what do you think the error is?

I went back an looked at it several times...then I realized that what I thought was a second POT is actually the element (on the bottom right corner); I'm not sure what I was thinking. My apologies! I have tried to removed that part of my original post but I am past of editing window. Sorry...feeling sort of blind and stupid at the moment! LOL

punkin

No worries Flyboy. That's the precise reason why we have the editing cutoff, just so the thread makes sense to all instead of being changed later down the track. Don't worry about feeling silly, we all make mistakes. B-)

FlyboyTR

@punkin said: No worries Flyboy. That's the precise reason why we have the editing cutoff, just so the thread makes sense to all instead of being changed later down the track. Don't worry about feeling silly, we all make mistakes. B-)

Thanks @punkin! I'm glad @Law_Of_Ohms called my hand on that; causing me to go back and look at it several more times. It's amazing how you can be looking directly at something and see, or interpret, it as something completely different. :)

Also thanks for the input regarding the diagram for my controller set-up. I always welcome and appreciate input...

I have a question regarding the soft, white cord that came in my kit. What is it used for? I will assume it is some type of thermal interface...but ???. I have some actual thermal paste that I was going to use between the SSR and the heat sink.

FlyboyTR

I think I may have answered my own questions; It appears the soft cord that was included must be the gasket for the enclosure and what I thought was a small desiccant packet is the thermal paste that was included in the kit. I went ahead and used the thermal paste I had in the shop. Thanks! :)

FlyboyTR

I finished up the wiring this morning.

Attached are pictures and a numbered layout with identification: Tin Man Boiler Control Box (PDF)

I plan to install a cooling fan (if needed) and a dampened analog volt meter at some point in the future. That is why I went with the large box and left an open spot for these.

captainshooch

@FlyboyTR Very nice job. =D> When I use a single 5500w 220vac element at 12 to 13 amps after warmup period my heat sink/ssr temp stays around 28C . I run a fan continuously because the enclosed box limits the heatsink ability do remove heat as the ambient air inside the box rises with time. You may not need the fan but I would add one since cooler temps might help the ssr last longer, IMHO. Mine is an 120mm 220v fan and it was only 24.00 from a c infinity, they have many sizes and voltages to choose from.

FlyboyTR

I have tested the unit and it works good. No electrical leakage to boiler (safe to operate). Everything functions as it should. The voltage stays near zero until the POT is above 20% and then flattens out around 90%. Presently I do not have any vent holes. Temps do not appear to be a factor until it is operating at approximately 80-85%. Since I have a bypass switch set-up, all initial heat-ups requiring 100 output will be done in bypass mode (zero heat output) then switched back to the controller once boiler temps are near operating range; then switch bypass off and adjust the controller accordingly. At this point I don't ever see a need for any type of cooling or even holes. However, extended run times may prove differently.

It appears I have been hogging this thread today...my apologies for the multiple posts.

Attached is a small spreadsheet showing the dial (POT) setting, voltage and percent of capacity. These numbers were taken while the unit was operational (system was under load). Max voltage (no load) is 240vac. Max voltage (under load- 5,500 watt element) is 236vac. All numbers on the spreadsheet are based on the a working max of 236vac.

Spartan_shiner

Hey there StillDragon site, I'm new to the forum and am just looking for some advice as I am in the process of assembling my DIY controller. A friend of mine who is an electrical engineering major is helping me out, but seeing as you are all experts i'd appreciate if you guys took a look at my current setup and made sure i didn't screw up something stupid. So far I have been going off of the econobox build manual on the forum, and I have everything done except wiring the pot. Here are some pictures of what I currently have, and what I am planning on doing with the pot:

My only concerns are that I have the SSR turned the correct way and that all of my wires are in the correct spot. Also, I am in the united states, and it may be a silly question but i'd like confirmation that the econobox wiring instructions are correct for electric dryer outlets in the united states (220v). I am using 10/3 wire just like in the instructions.

Also, just to confirm, on the side out to the outlet, when I wire my plug I want black to the hot lug and white to the neutral lug, then the green wire to the ground lug, and on the element side, I can wire the black and white to either screw on the heating element, then make sure I attach the green to the keg itself to ground it, correct? Thanks a million for the advice!

captainshooch

@Spartan_shiner, First welcome and congrats on taking the initiative to build your own controller. However I am very concerned about your understanding of 240v wiring in the USA. Please do not take offense, but you may want someone to help you on this part. In your post you mentioned:

when I wire my plug I want black to the hot lug and white to the neutral lug, then the green wire to the ground lug, and on the element side, I can wire the black and white to either screw on the heating element, then make sure I attach the green to the keg itself to ground it, correct? Thanks a million for the advice!

USA 240 V ac single phase is actually 2 hot wires at 120 volts each... on the element it does not matter it takes 2 to tango, 120 + 120 = 240 on the plug there is no neutral per se 240 does not need a neutral the third wire is for safety, 2 hots and one earth (earth is the safety wire)..be careful!!! by your description black is hot white is neutral and green is earth is off..black is 120, white is 120 and green is earth/or ground, no neutral in 240.

Apologies if I offend you but first and most importantly be careful and safe.

Hooch

FlyboyTR

@captainshooch said: FlyboyTR Very nice job. =D> When I use a single 5500w 220vac element at 12 to 13 amps after warmup period my heat sink/ssr temp stays around 28C . I run a fan continuously because the enclosed box limits the heatsink ability do remove heat as the ambient air inside the box rises with time. You may not need the fan but I would add one since cooler temps might help the ssr last longer, IMHO. Mine is an 120mm 220v fan and it was only 24.00 from a c infinity, they have many sizes and voltages to choose from.

Thanks! My wife is in the computer repair trade...She is on the lookout for a 110vac fan; strange that most computer fans are 12vdc. I have also been looking at some of the cheap digital panel mount volt meters on eBay. $11.00 delivered from somewhere across the big water.

Good call on @Spartan_shiner's potential wiring problem. Unfortunately he is not alone; there are many people that just don't quite get the difference between our (USA) 110vac and 220vac wiring, colors and combinations. Also, it looks like his pot may be wired backwards; needs to swap the wires on terminals 3 & 4.

Thanks again!

Myles

Can someone send me a set of the wiring instructions for the kit please. Have these been re drawn for the different supply voltages? eg UK 240v single phase and USA 240v Split phase?

punkin

@Myles said: Can someone send me a set of the wiring instructions for the kit please. Have these been re drawn for the different supply voltages? eg UK 240v single phase and USA 240v Split phase?

As far as i know these are the official DIY Controller Instructions. We don't offer electrical advice, the customers electrical contractor will do that.

Myles

Looks clear enough to me. Black / White / Green colour coding, and that configuration are standard for a 240 v split phase supply with both Black and White being hot with 110 v on each.

Originally I thought it might be a good idea to include the wiring colours for other countries but they keep changing so the buyer needs to check anyway. And as you say clearly enough - get an electrician to put it together.

It might be nice to update it with isolation switches - but it is fine as it is and will do the job.

Moonshine

Please always keep the possible risks in mind when dealing with electricity, which makes me quote our disclaimer from our Terms of Service again:

DISCLAIMER: Any advice given here reflects the personal opinion of individual forum members, which may not necessarily be correct and is meant to be addressed to someone who exactly knows and understands how to perform the necessary tasks. If in any doubt please seek help from a professional. Neither the StillDragon User Group nor the StillDragon Distribution Network or their individual members can be held responsible in case you encounter problems, damages or injuries when following any given instructions.

Mountaineer

LLoyd I would rather have the metal ones period. The plastic ones when I bump them they come apart. I really like those metal ones. Let me know if you are going to start sending those to the states... Thanks

Lloyd

@Mountaineer, do you mean the cable glands?
If so, we can supply those too. I have found that the nut on the cable gland works better if you turn it over. It seems to grip the thread better.

Law_Of_Ohms

@FlyboyTR did you use a tru-rms voltmeter to measure the voltages?

Lloyd

@Mountaineer, shown is the new Element Guard end cap that has been modified to accept the PG19 (plastic cable gland shown) and the metal gland that is not exactly the same size thread wise but is smaller and will fit the end cap hole - though a bit looser. Both grip this cable the same and my calipers show the cable to be about 13mm diameter.

The metal gland looks snazzy.

Thanks to @Law_Of_Ohms for helping me to finally get the Element Guard end cap right.

FlyboyTR

@Law_Of_Ohms said: FlyboyTR did you use a tru-rms voltmeter to measure the voltages?

Yes, the "response" on my Fluke is true rms. I had originally checked it with an elcheap'o meter and then with the Fluke. The numbers were pretty close.

Mountaineer

Hey @Lloyd.. Nice to hear from you. Yes sir it is the metal cable gland. The plastic ones I have I have actually turned the nut over and that is hoe I use them. Unfortunately I have my boilers on wheels so I always seem to bump them with my knee as I am moving them to clean up around the building. So I think that I have just warn out the threads that are hold them. Anyway let me know sir if and when you might have them in the States. I will shoot @Smaug a PM and ask about them....

Lloyd

@Mountaineer, I'll add a couple of hundred of them to @Smaug's next shipment but it's not scheduled to leave until the first of January and should arrive mid-March.
It's another 40' containerful, mostly big boilers, so plenty of room for additions like the metal glands.

mittos

Has anyone added a power switch to their controller? Like one of these:

(12VDC/50A On/Off Toggle Switch)