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12" Column Stuff

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  • A true 1/2" id on the inlet and outlet spout should handle the added volume no?

    StillDragon North America - Your StillDragon® Distributor for North America

  • pretty easy to test with water, I personally think just the outlet tube, and possibly the body.. if the inlet tube adds a bit of restriction, the level will rise a bit, and the flow will increase due to pressure differential...

  • You could always split the flow before the parrot. Just pass a sample through the parrot.

  • What size parrot is on the big systems that are in place in Au or in Europe? Doe's it collect in a small holding tank then side off to the parrot to prevent turbulence?

    just thinking out loud...

  • edited June 2014

    Here is the parrot and closed collection system for a 1000 liter Carl. Sorry the picture is blurry, this was in the background. Looks like the parrot body is about 1.5-2 inches, and the output piping at least .5 inches. It's tough to see, especially in this maze of plumbing. If you open it full size you can see the hydrometer peeking out the top (for sizing reference).

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  • @Myles said: You could always split the flow before the parrot. Just pass a sample through the parrot.

    ^^^^This^^^^ This is the simplest, most elegant solution. Thanks Myles. That is a fantastic idea. Twin outlets together, one going through the parrot, one beside it.

    StillDragon Australia & New Zealand - Your StillDragon® Distributor for Australia & New Zealand

  • edited June 2014

    And from a Holst. - looks to be 1" product feed, 1.5-2" body, .5" outlet. This is a smaller Holst, 100g. This photo wasn't mine, but appropriated and cropped.

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  • edited June 2014

    You know, if there was someplace you could get a 4x2 bowl reducer, a 2x2x1 tee, a short section of 2" TC spool you would be nearly there.

    You'd need to tig in a short section of 2" pipe in the wide part of the bowl, and drill and tig a short section of 1/2" output pipe. Finish off the bottom with a reducer and valve.

  • edited June 2014

    Then just clamp a 4" sight tower to the top and you have a sealed parrot!

    It would be too large to be called a parrot, would need to call it a vulture, or turkey, or T-Rex.

  • Hard part would be tigging in the short section of 2" pipe inside the bowl. That would be some pretty tight inside pocket welding. But what is the point of having a Sealed Parrot with a open output to a collection vessel. You would want this to then pipe over to a closed collection vessel.

  • edited June 2014

    Funny, I'm sitting here with a stack of triclamp pipe and parts trying to see what would work, and kind of came to that conclusion myself. Is burn through a few hundred bucks worth of fittings trying to do it.

    From my parts bin, I'm looking at a 4" flat end-cap with two holes drilled, 1 to accommodate the OD of 2" pipe, and the other the ID of a 3/4 inch mini-tc fitting. The holes are offset to fit. I have a piece of 2" pipe that I can feed up through the end-cap and weld in, and then weld the 3/4 fitting on. Now, flip this upside down and attach to the 4" sight column. The 3/4 fitting would allow plumbing to a sealed collection vessel. The bottom flange of the sight glass would form the parrot bowl.

  • Add a 2" TC ferrule to the bottom and reduce down so you can add a drain/heads collection valve. Add a 2" ferrule to the bottom and that attach the 2" tee so you can have the inlet and the drain/head collection out the bottom. Also I would drill a hole and weld on a 1/2npt fitting just a bit below the inlet side of the T so you can add a Temp Sensor on the parrot for doing temp adjustments of the hydrometer reading. Just make sure the sensor will not interfere with the hydrometer moving up and down.

  • This thing could measure the alcohol content of Niagara Falls.

  • edited June 2014

    Good having a shed full of bits. First modular parrot in the world.

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    You just have to imagine that all the 2" bits are 1 inch and that the torpedo has a better breather (a port with bend). The top cup with spout could be made in 1"with a 1"TC port below to fit any size alcometer.

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    StillDragon Australia & New Zealand - Your StillDragon® Distributor for Australia & New Zealand

  • High precision narrow range alcometer tend to have a very fat bulb. The pipe the alcometer floats in would need to be at least 1.5". Mine just fit in a 1" but the gap is so small that the flow actually pushes the alcometer up to the point the entire stem is out of the liquid. If this is a sealed Parrot and connected to sealed collection tank the you would probably want to put another surge breaker on the output line from the parrot to the collection tank.

  • party at punin's house...!!!!!

  • edited June 2014

    I'd say a small hole in the end-cap at the top of the sight-tower would allow for sufficient venting that you wouldn't need a second surge breaker.

    "Sealed" isn't quite so sealed, since even in the big German systems, they have vents (see the shot of the Holstein). The Carls have similar tee'd vents.

    Here is a really bad sketch. The feed from the surge breaker or vent tee not shown, clamps not shown. Sight column has end caps on top and bottom. Bottom would have the 3/4 and 2" thru pipe welded.

    Absolutely guarantee that the hydrometer would always be facing the wrong direction. On the bright side, you could probably beat an intruder to death with this.

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  • A few pours of 250ml of water through the SD parrot took less than 10 seconds each. I assume alcohol would go through faster?
    Either way, it seems the regular SD parrot tops out at about 90 liters per hour of water so the parrot is marginal if the 12" is producing about 40 liters per hour. Might work, might not.

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  • 3" Sight Tower might work also. Either would require custom machined ends.

  • Lloyd it is not so much an issue of whether the parrot can manage the flow - which sounds impressive. 90 liters per hour ;)) It is more about how much that flow rate will distort your readings. That's why I suggested just measuring a sample at a slower flow rate through the parrot body.

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  • My wife has this great antique brass lantern with a door on the front, she saw me eyeing it last night, she might be on to me…

  • I won't let anything slip, but the 12" Crystal Dragon? She's a beauty.

  • edited June 2014

    Going to need a cable hoist…

  • Yeah. I figured that thing was going to be HEAVY.

  • well, I aint gonna be as fast as grim to take one, but I'll likely be ordering one when the funding gets sorted in the next few months. dont want copper tho, and perf plates are preferrable for me.

  • Semi-release of the 12in Crystal Dragon stills..... parts on order now! taking pre-orders!

    image

  • edited June 2014

    Top mount aquarium? Maybe space for some sort of catalyst? Or maybe just some carp.

    Crystal parrot cage?

    Coolant connections sized for a fire hose?

    What the heck is going on here!?!?

    A bit of a shocker that the parrot assembly is the size of the 4" crystal dragon.

    Either way, world's first 12" modular glass still!

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