StillDragon® Community Forum

Welcome!

Be part of our community & join our international next generation forum now!

In this Discussion

DIY Power Controller

1246719

Comments

  • Finished my first run on electric power. Very satisfactoy, heating up full 6kw, the same time as on gas, 1h 10 min for heating 80L, from 27 till 86,5 °C The temp of the heatsinck climed slowly till nearly 70 °. I used then a hair dryer as ventilater and temp dropped easy to 40+. During take off the temp stayed just below 60° and I didn't use the hair dryer anymore. I think I'm at half power more or less during take off. It is much nicer with elec, because the ambient temp is much lower. With gas it was much hotter around the distiller. Does anyone know the max operating temp of the SSR ?

    M-

  • not sure Moscca but have had my controller on for 8-10 hours with no issues

    StillDragon North America - Your StillDragon® Distributor for North America

  • If in doubt, just put a fan in the box

  • Yep, Thats the sort of temps I was getting - Looks like U need forced cooling on anything over 3600W

    Also I would recommend the controller being by-passed when heating up on full power.

    Simple double poll double throw switch should do it.

  • I use a standard 12v computer fan and one of these 12v dc pwm motor controller.

    It's probably an overkill, but I can set the fan speed to an acceptable noise level.

    As far as how the SSR handles heat, Auber Instruments recommend a max of 70C/158F see here

  • edited September 2013

    Thanks, for the answers.

    @Law_Of_Ohms: I was thinking also on that solution, will google that simple switch. If 70° is ok, no problem during take off then. This is just a test for me, to see the difference with gas.

    M-

  • My controller heats up a little. I can feel warmth coming out of the vent holes. But not enough to be concerned with. Next time I fire it up I will try to get a temp reading off the heatsink. I'm only running 5500w. But 500w should only change it minimally.

  • After two hours of full power 5500 watts. With the controller on its side. The bottom side of the heat sink was around 100 f. The top right by the SSR was 123 f. All other places were 110 down to 100.

  • Heating up full power, 6kw, my heatsink got to 72°C after 16 min. Measured at the middle of the heatsink as close as possible to the SSR. Take off @ 120 V = 60 to 62°. Ambient temp. = 32

  • edited September 2013

    Brand name SSR datasheet (Crydom) says 80c is the maximum.

    Maybe its just me, but I would:

    1. add a bypass switch for full power.
    2. add a fan for cooling.
  • @Law_Of_Ohms, a bypass switch is a clever idea. No need to run current through the SSR for boil up when we're throwing full power at the boiler.
    I only need full power for boil up but after that I cut down to about 1/2 power on one element.
    I can only get 2000 watt elements locally and use all three for boil up. Then disconnect one, one is full on and the last is controlled by the SSR.

  • 80deg c max puts me well under that at 51 deg c.

  • Thanks, LOO, I'm looking for the switch you mentioned.

  • Ok I ordered my diy controller. I also ordered the element gaurd kit. Is the pdf file for the instructions on this thread for us wiring? Also need help wiring an ammeter to the box. Thanks

  • is Get Smoking wiring diagram for us or Australia ?

  • In sorry It was Lloyds Post

  • LoO, your Ammeter should be in series with the element. Voltmeter in parallel. :D

    image

  • I need pics. I don't understand the diagram

  • Has anyone successfully used a PID as a boiler controller?

    OD

  • edited September 2013

    I do. I use my electric brewery controller (3 PIDs with 2 SSRs) and actually use the same element on my boil kettle and boiler. The beauty of having elements on tri-clamp ferules.

    Obviously, for this to work out, the PID controllers must have a manual mode and therefore not be working as PIDs. A PID algorithm would not be able to control boiling.

  • @Smaug How on earth you get stuff to me so fast after I order? Just got 2" 180 TW...it is sweet! Thanks! The dual element, 11000W double SD DIY controll box and the flow control box are ready and it will not be long my friend, I will have her rolling. I will update on the mechanical temps and SD thermowell temps on the 2" just as soon as I get her going. I do not expect much difference, I only wanted the mechanical for a solid back up, since everything else is dependent on batteries and such.....

    image

    control_box.jpg
    800 x 600 - 69K
  • I got my element gaurd in today and the 10gaugewire that I planned to use will not fit in the strain reliever . what size wire should I Be using from the Control box to the element ?

  • Hi Hollis,

    the cable gland is not 100% necessary,

    I would rather use 10awg wire and no cable gland then use smaller wire

  • Hi Hollis, email me please. You may have received the wrong size gland. I am happy to send the correct size

    StillDragon North America - Your StillDragon® Distributor for North America

  • edited September 2013

    I am a bit concerned about this topic. There are many ways to wire these devices so that they will work BUT ONLY ONE that is recommended by the manufacturer.

    These are designed for single phase circuits. That is one LIVE wire (110 volt or 240 volt), 1 NEUTRAL (0 volt) wire and an Earth (0 volt ) wire.

    What is important is that of the two SUPPLY wires, the Neutral (0 volt) goes directly to the unit, the other Live (110 volt or 240 volt) goes to the load and then the unit.

    image

    Or with an RFI filter included

    image

    They will work in other configurations AGAINST the advice of the manufacturer. I recommend that you do not do it.

    Here is an overview of Phase Angle Control and Burst Firing options. I use both. The Radio Frequency Interference only becomes an issue if you have more than 1 PAC controller and they are close together.

    image

    On a PAC if you measure the voltage between the 2 element connectors and the current in 1 of the wires going to the element, BOTH the voltage and the current will change.

    On many PAC's there is a TRIGGER voltage. You have to turn the variable resistor up until the PAC switches on. You can then turn it back down to get a reduced output, or up further to get an increased output.

    Whilst I am sure the SD versions are just fine, you should be aware that some of these are intended to control INDUCTIVE loads such as transformers and motors, and others are for RESISTIVE loads like ovens and heaters. They are slightly different.

    Also take care of the maximum output current - this is SEVERELY restricted by temperature, or more precisely by the ability of the heatsink to get rid of the temperature.

    image

    Whilst you can run these devices at maximum power it will reduce their life expectancy.

    The United Automation PSR-25 will manage 6kW @ 240 volts. Its bigger relative the PSR-40 will manage 9kW @ 240 volt.

    I have an order for a controller for a 6kW boiler - it is using an IP66 rated steel wall box, a PSR-40 with a heatsink and a fan. OK it will not be cheap, but it will last - and have capacity for an element upgrade in the future if required.

    SSR wiring.jpg
    800 x 366 - 36K
    PSR and RFI Filter.jpg
    246 x 370 - 17K
    PAC vs BF.jpg
    800 x 461 - 93K
    PSR-25 1.jpg
    800 x 483 - 40K
  • Sorry I forgot to add - the two wires to the variable resistor are both live. potentially up to 240v ac. If you inadvertently trap one of them that could certainly blow a variable resistor.

  • @Hollis said: I got my element gaurd in today and the 10gaugewire that I planned to use will not fit in the strain reliever . what size wire should I Be using from the Control box to the element ?

    My the 3-10 wire that I used would also not fit in the strain reliever. The wire gauge should be decided from the currant that will pass through the wire and not from gear limitations.

    I used a dremel to widen the hole a bit, there was not much missing. A bit of lube (I had some food grade keg lube around) can also help.

  • @Myles great post and very informative. As all here will attest, if you do not know what you are doing when it comes to elctricity and DIY's, get help!! I have seeked help from a few in the process of building my 11000kw controller based on 2 SD DIY'S. I have been scooled and had to make some changes, but I think I have it ready to go now. I only use it on a 26 Gal boiler and do not plan on running full blast at any time. Maybe 18 amps each for heat up and then a single at 15-18 amps for the run, I do have a fan and 2 SD temp gauges on the SSR's just for say " idiot warning light" so if something goes wrong at least I will have a temp telling me things are going off with the SSR's. I find SD forum is the most honest, up-front and informative site ther is bar none and I sure appreciate posts like yours...you guys make it easy for us :-) Just like SD...build it how you want it..we got the parts, you configure as you wish, with some help from your friends.

Sign In or Register to comment.