Milkcan has arrived...yaaaaaaaaa

Icefever

It came today.....

all I have to do now is sort a element....but I still need some other bits.....bugger more money. :(( :((

SDeurope

Wow, I'm impressed, 4 days including the weekend, that must be a new record over the canal (more likely through the tunnel). Not bad at all for a postal parcel! :-bd

cooperville

Looks real nice a worthy investment

Icefever

Because I can only run a 3 kw heater, putting to one side the time it takes to heat the wash, if in the future I was to go up to a 4" column, would it still work ok??. I'm starting to build a bigger controller as the one I've got is only good for 2kw. What I don't want to do is go for a 4", when maybe a 3" would work a lot better on that sort of rig with only 3kw to throw at it. :-/

Lloyd

3kW is a little slow for the boil up depending on if the boiler if full or not but it will run a 4" bubble column. With StillDragon you go from the 2.5" Baby Dragon (Ace of Hearts) to a 4" Crystal Dragon or stainless steel Dash. 3kW is more than enough for the Ace and is also adequate for the 4" Dash.

3kW to bring 50 liters to a boil will certainly take longer than a 5.5kW element but after boil up everyone needs to trim back the power for the run.

Icefever

Thanks Lloyd.. I know it'll take a while to heat up....but 3kw is all we can have on our standard UK system. I hope to run around 40litres on each run...but I just wanted to be sure that when the time comes for an upgrade the boiler will work ok. I would like to finish up with a 4", now I know they work.

Myles

@Icefever actually it depends on your wiring. I have run 6kW on bare wiring clipped to the wall in an outside shed. It depends on the circuit, how long your run time is, and whether it is plastered or not. You might be able to run higher.

Icefever

@Myles said: Icefever actually it depends on your wiring. I have run 6kW on bare wiring clipped to the wall in an outside shed. It depends on the circuit, how long your run time is, and whether it is plastered or not. You might be able to run higher.

I think I know what you mean Myles, the cable you had in the shed had no chance to build up any heat??. I can run a cable from the kitchen it would need to be around 5/6 meters, but what size cable would work? then where would be the best socket to plug into??. I'm sure I can work off the cooker ring main by fitting a socket just for the boiler, as long as the cooker was not on would that work??? or am I way of course?? Then if I'm correct what size element could I get away with?/

SDeurope

@Icefever, I would not worry about the strength of the element that much, it really is mostly about the heat-up time, and as long as you are not commercial and working on the clock I'd say some more time for getting it up is acceptable.

Your accessory package is already on the way, as requested it comes with a little extra. ;)

FullySilenced

Life is too short...it's really nice to see someone excited about a happening in their life... Gratz. @Icefever

Icefever

@SDeurope said: Your accessory package is already on the way, as requested it comes with a little extra. ;)

I saw the email Michael, wonderful service and many thanks, looking forward to the postman already...like Chrimbo all over again...

BJ.

@FullySilenced said: Life is too short...it's really nice to see someone excited about a happening in their life... Gratz. Icefever...

Cheers FS....can't wait to fire the bugger up now...then the learning curve will start to climb.. @-)

Myles

If you are woried about warm up time insulation is your best friend. Your power is more than you need during the run. Extra power is in the nice to have category but not really needed.

punkin

If you ran extr wiring it would have to be right from the circuit breaker (assuming it's got heavier wiring behind it) as the same load will be pulled through the wiring to wherever you plug your bare (hoping that means insulated but not enclosed) wires in.

But as said, you have enough power to do what you want anyway and a nice jacket to insulate your boiler will help a lot as Myles said.

Icefever

Then that's the route I'll take guys....stick with the 3kw cheers.. ^:)^

Lloyd

Its weird that someone new brings to the table something we all know but don't rightly follow... insulating the boiler.
I need to fix that for my little T500 boiler tomorrow. Thanks for reminding me!

Probably only take 15 or 20 minutes to do but it would add many percents to efficiency.
I can probably stretch it out to an hour long project if I put my mind to it.

Myles

@punkin YES bare in the context of normal twin and earth clipped directly to brickwork, not under plaster or drywall. Also low ambient temperature and switched on with a controller so the start up current was low. Within the max load capacity of the wiring and for a reasonably short duration so no significant heating.

its worth looking at an HVAC supplier for insulation. Sheet closed cell foam is available in a wide range of sizes and thicknesses for insulation of ducting. Clean and convenient to use for electric boiler insulation.

CothermanDistilling

if ya got the itch to insulate

Icefever

Simple and does the job....will have to sort one out..

Kapea

@CothermanDistilling said: if ya got the itch to insulate

If you don't itch before you insulate, you will after...

(Reminds me of my surfboard building days)