What's the best thing to run through your new still to clean it out before you do a production run? I've heard water and vinegar mixture, what did you use and how did you do it (condenser on/off)?
If you've assembled already, then a vinegar/water solution would be good. Keep the water flow to your condensers turned off to allow for steam to blow through the system for several minutes. Then apply coolant and let it run for 20-30 minutes.
Just bite the bullet and get your CIP protocol up and running. Your first clean should be using your CIP protocol.
Five Star PBW and Bulk Citric Acid are all you need. (or the DIY PBW if you want to save a few bucks).
Fill your kettle up with water, heat it up to 150F, add the correct dosage of PBW. Use a long hygienic scrubber to clean the the kettle (or spray ball if you have it). Hook your pump up to the kettle drain and recirculate it through the condenser with hoses. Just make a big loop, let it run for 30 minutes.
Drain, then repeat with water to rinse, 15 minutes.
Drain, then do the same with water and Citric Acid - I've been using a pH of 4.0, 15 minutes. You may not need to do this every time unless you are going deep into tails, or switching product, etc.
Good final rinse, 15 minutes. I usually dump the water two or three times during the final rinse down.
I can't give you exact amounts of liquid, because it's going to be based on your total system volume, condensers, piping, hoses, pump speeds, etc. You need only enough liquid that you aren't sucking air down the drain and causing your pumps to cavitate.
When we do it, we hook up extra hoses and CIP all the hoses at the same time. It's easier than cleaning the hoses separately.
Post run, you'll want to clean and drain the kettle BEFORE running any recirculation through the column - you don't want to pump solids up in there. A hot water rinse and quick scrub down to make sure you've got nothing stuck on the walls, drain, start from above.
In a CIP regime say introduce detergent from kettle via parrot up through PC, RC, column and then back to kettle, I have watched a few videos and the following is observed.
Flow is generally very low. I associate line CIP with at least 3m/s flow velocity.
There are large parts / areas within column plates that are not reached.
So I say that this CIP is not great and is only a means to an end.
But what if you install a butterfly valve above kettle and block the return. In other words you allow the column to 100% flood. At some point you would be able to crack the butterfly valve to get circulation back to the kettle and still achieve complete flooding.
Still won't get turbulent flow.
If diameter is to big for turbulent flow it's time to look into spray balls etc.
That said, thecolumn shouldn't have heavy fouling anyway unless it's a continuous stipper or you let it foam over.
It would really be cool if for the little models, someone came up with a quick release system - like the quick release on a bicycle wheel.
Fit the rod up through slots in the bottom of the column, slide the top of the QR through slots in the column head, and then use the cam lever to tension the column. You would probably still need the threaded rod, just cut to length.
No futzing with washers and nuts. Stack, slide the rod in, tension down, go to town.
Comments
What kind of still is it? If it's one of ours lots of people just run it through the dishwasher.
StillDragon Australia & New Zealand - Your StillDragon® Distributor for Australia & New Zealand
Hi Aaron,
If you've assembled already, then a vinegar/water solution would be good. Keep the water flow to your condensers turned off to allow for steam to blow through the system for several minutes. Then apply coolant and let it run for 20-30 minutes.
Then drain and do the same with clean water.
StillDragon North America - Your StillDragon® Distributor for North America
Thanks! Yeah it's a SD 1000L BM so might be a little big for the diswasher :)
What's a good water vinegar ratio? When you say "apply coolant", you mean turn on the condenser?
Hi Aaron, I think Punkin was referring to the plate assembles and your glass.
4 water to 1 vinegar ratio is probably fine. Can also get some citric acid as an alternative.
Yes water to the condenser.
StillDragon North America - Your StillDragon® Distributor for North America
Just bite the bullet and get your CIP protocol up and running. Your first clean should be using your CIP protocol.
Five Star PBW and Bulk Citric Acid are all you need. (or the DIY PBW if you want to save a few bucks).
Fill your kettle up with water, heat it up to 150F, add the correct dosage of PBW. Use a long hygienic scrubber to clean the the kettle (or spray ball if you have it). Hook your pump up to the kettle drain and recirculate it through the condenser with hoses. Just make a big loop, let it run for 30 minutes.
Drain, then repeat with water to rinse, 15 minutes.
Drain, then do the same with water and Citric Acid - I've been using a pH of 4.0, 15 minutes. You may not need to do this every time unless you are going deep into tails, or switching product, etc.
Good final rinse, 15 minutes. I usually dump the water two or three times during the final rinse down.
I can't give you exact amounts of liquid, because it's going to be based on your total system volume, condensers, piping, hoses, pump speeds, etc. You need only enough liquid that you aren't sucking air down the drain and causing your pumps to cavitate.
When we do it, we hook up extra hoses and CIP all the hoses at the same time. It's easier than cleaning the hoses separately.
Post run, you'll want to clean and drain the kettle BEFORE running any recirculation through the column - you don't want to pump solids up in there. A hot water rinse and quick scrub down to make sure you've got nothing stuck on the walls, drain, start from above.
In a CIP regime say introduce detergent from kettle via parrot up through PC, RC, column and then back to kettle, I have watched a few videos and the following is observed.
So I say that this CIP is not great and is only a means to an end.
But what if you install a butterfly valve above kettle and block the return. In other words you allow the column to 100% flood. At some point you would be able to crack the butterfly valve to get circulation back to the kettle and still achieve complete flooding.
Ideas on this.
Still won't get turbulent flow.
If diameter is to big for turbulent flow it's time to look into spray balls etc.
That said, thecolumn shouldn't have heavy fouling anyway unless it's a continuous stipper or you let it foam over.
Agree that you will not get turbulent flow. But trying to make the best out of a bad situation is better than nothing.
@grim used foam which seemed to work for him. I'd probably just follow vessel protocol. At home COP works :-??
It would really be cool if for the little models, someone came up with a quick release system - like the quick release on a bicycle wheel.
Fit the rod up through slots in the bottom of the column, slide the top of the QR through slots in the column head, and then use the cam lever to tension the column. You would probably still need the threaded rod, just cut to length.
No futzing with washers and nuts. Stack, slide the rod in, tension down, go to town.