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  • Stripping Run --> Spirit run: How to minimise wastage?

    What @crozdog says - doesn't pay to do a strip and spirit run at 1:1.

    4 strips to 1 spirit. Ferment and strip 3 more batches.

    Remove the plates, reflux condenser, and gin basket when you strip, they are just slowing you down.

  • 4" To 6" Upgrade

    If the 4" and 6" both have 3 caps, doesn't it make more sense to jump to 8"? I'd think the 8" would be far more future-proof.

    Get a generator, run it to cut down that heat-up time to an hour or less.

  • Stripping Run --> Spirit run: How to minimise wastage?

    Hi @crozdog, thanks for that! that is super useful info. A mate of mine was importing / exporting out of china, and we hopped on the import and grabbed one (think he paid about $3k inc onion & 4 plate column).

    We're looking at making gin / vodka at the moment, so we're looking for a high alcohol content neutral spirit (we're using a chasing the craft wash recipe), which we'll water down to about %45 --> %50.

  • 4" To 6" Upgrade

    @SLOPEmeisteR Have a look at the calcs page

    I used it to calculate your heat up time for 380l with 15000W & got an answer of around 2.5 hours to get a 10% wash to 90C @ 90% efficiency.

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    That page also has a vapour speed calculator ;-)

    IMO the 380l is a perfect match with 8" columns. Remember diameter = speed. As a commercial operation, time = money. Smaller diameter = Longer runs = increased cost and lower production volumes :-(

    I don't know why you say you can't get the power to run an 8". I have a 380l with 4 x 8" plates & use 21kw for heat up but cut back to 14kw for the run.

    Good cuts come down to how you run the rig (eg power input, reflux ratio, timing, if you do a strip then spirit run etc). If you're going to be barrel aging you don't need the hearts cut to be as tight because you actually want a bunch of the congeners in heads (& late tails with rum) for flavour (but you won't get much of that on a sugar wash).

    FYI, adding a few more plates will only take a little extra time to heat up. The longest time is getting the wash up to temp, getting the column to temp is pretty quick once the wash is boiling.

    As you're operating in a pretty cold environment, don't forget you can insulate the boiler & column to improve thermal efficiency & hence overall performance of the rig.

  • 4" To 6" Upgrade

    Hi @grim,

    Yeah I've got space and power limits to work within. I've converted my garage at home to a nano-brewery/distillery, fully HMRC licenced and selling product online and markets. I'm amazed at the quality (as are customers) I'm producing rum at on single pass through 3 plate 4" Dash, wow!

    I put 12 kW solar on the roof last year, but that's only good for 8 months of the year, so working with limitation of single phase mains. The mains will do around 20 kW but I need to leave some for the wife to run the house! I recon 15 kW is a safe limit for the brewery/distillery.

    This upgrade gets production capacity on rum alone into significant figures, with literally no overheads (no rent, rates, etc). As I approach capacity on the upgrade kit the business will be well placed to go for a much larger upgrade, commercial premises, and have the books to raise capital for investment. It's a plan to grow with as low a risk as possible.

    Hence a bigger boiler at 380L than perhaps a 6" column requires, but I can't get the power for 8" and a 380L charge on 6" column will give a nice long run with long clear cuts I think. 380L boiler will never go a miss in a craft distillery. In the sunnier months (in Scotland, don't laugh!), I'll have up to 32 kW to play with depending on house load scheduling, this would let me run the upgrade still and my existing 100L 4" Dash... thinking maybe stripping runs on the 6" then run smaller still as a rectifier to produce vodka (might need to go 4 or 5 plates each on 4" and 6" to hit vodka).

  • 4" To 6" Upgrade

    Current 100L boiler has 5 kW heating and takes around 2 hours to heat up my 4" Dash with 3 ProCap plates. Then around 4.5 hours at 4.4 kW with dephlegmator on pretty strong (cold Scottish water) I get a good steady flow through my cuts taking rum hearts around 81% from a 9.5% sugar wash. So I'm running with vapour speed around 15.9"/sec, right? I figure I want to replicate this as I scale up.

    Thinking going with a 380L boiler with around 15 kW heating, this should take around 3 hours to heat up. I'm thinking a 6" Dash with 3 ProCap plates would take around 9.8 kW to run double flow rate through the cuts with the same vapour speed as my old rig at 15.9"/sec, right? But since the boiler volume is nearly 4 times bigger the time from heat up to end of tails will now be double the old rig, around 8 to 10 hours. Is my thinking right?

    If I want to run more plates, say 6 or 8, would the total 15 kW give me enough headroom on power to push up the extra plates and maintain the product flow rate?

    How many plates would I need on the new rig to make vodka, would 8 be enough and would the headroom of 15 kW of power be enough to push this through the plates with a reasonable product flow rate?

    Plates and power, the balance of life!

  • I Love Obfuscation Proofing

    If you ever hear me say that you know I've been kidnapped. I was doing Limoncello today. Just about done and the sugar does its normal thing. Now I have to clean up this disaster. Luckily I found that if I let it soak in PBW for a day or two it's not that hard to clean. It's still a huge mess though.

    In the photo everything you see that is black solidified almost instantly. It smells horrible to boot. Yay me.

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  • [USA/WA] Sale: 3 Pieces 6" x 6" x 3" Stainless Steel Sight Glass Union Tee

    Hello,

    I am selling (3) of StillDragon 6" x 6" x 3" Stainless Steel Sight Glass Union Tee. They came to me through some wine stainless steel stuff sale as not used. They were kept in indoor storage for about 5 years until I found it a week ago now they are on sale.

    Each unit comes with glass "windows" - you get what you see on pictures. Nothing else is there.

    They are sold at StillDragon for $245 each.

    They are yours for $400 total for all (3) plus reasonable shipping cost.

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  • 3 Chamber Still

    Australian distillery gonna get a 3 chamber

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  • High Ester Still Build

    Hold on, Hirsch designed the 3 chamber too?

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  • High Ester Still Build

    Hey @SingleMaltYinzer, i know this isn't what you had in mind but I found this in Whiskey, Brandy, and Cordials and thought you'd dig this...

    It's their rapid aging idea from 1918, I honestly don't know what kind of effects it would have on a spirit aging wise, but it's basically just a big Fischer esterification still.

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  • DonMateo's Distillery Shed

    Thanks mate. Here are a few more fotos. The first is the highly specialised front end loader as still removal crane thingy, the next is yours truly to give an idea of size of this thing and the final is a welding fotos for the equipment guys, which is most of us. The guy with the beer gut hooking up the lifting sling is Raul my gardener. I was going to take a gardners crack foto but that would have been a step too far.

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  • GNS Continuous Still?

    I was going to ask about this is a different way... so there's a local distillery that claims to pot still their vodka 7 times in order to get their neutral... but even if they are diluting down the their high wines to 40%, they'd never hit 190. How is it you think they are getting away with it?

  • GNS Continuous Still?

    @grim said: Unfortunately, you absolutely can not proof down with this approach. Your product will be taken off as exactly the same proof as your input. If you proof to 40%, your distillate can not be considered vodka or neutral spirits, it's going to come off at 40%.

    I don't have a horse in this race, but while vodka needs to be distilled to 190+ proof, I don't see a stipulation that vodka needs the last distillation to be 190+. Now, maybe we're talking about class changing, but that's something else that may be legally significant but not actually end product significant.

    Good feedback everywhere else as usual.

  • DonMateo's Distillery Shed

    Well I finally received my stripping still today. My mate took 58 months to make it. The final boiler is very nice. But dont do what I did. Buy SD gear. Then you wont have to wait 5 years for a peice of gear. Its a 1300l strip with 6 element ports, an 8 " condensor that has 25 copper cooling coils. All local manufacture. I did the design myself one even when I was with my mate bent on bad whiskey.

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  • GNS Continuous Still?

    Just looked at some of those older threads, those guys were talking about 408 watts per gallon of feed per hour, not per minute, which I think explains it. For 2 gallons a minute, that's 2 * 60 * 408 = 49kw. Now we're cooking.

    I have a tube in shell boiler that came out of a Millipore steam distillation purifier skid unit that I was experimenting with for building one of these. It's built for steam feed, and to boil 100% of the feed in one pass.

    I'm not joking when I tell you that thing can easily consume every single BTU of our main boiler to be able to boil off a few gallons a minute (single digits). We're talking way more than 150kw, but there was no heat recovery in my testing.

    One of my favorite tests was trying to build a continuous gin still off the vapor feed. Take a feed from a barrel of GNS and a barrel of water. Boil them off at the desired ABV. Push that vapor through a set of two baskets (with a valve to direct the vapor feed). Turn that baby on and just keep changing baskets until your swimming pool is full of gin.

  • GNS Continuous Still?

    My main bain marie still is 330l but when i run it with 220l i run it with 3 elements pushing about 6kw each. On a 220l batch it will heat up in about 45 mins and strip in about 2.5 hours. A 330l run will take about an hour and 15 mins depending on the abv and take 3.5 to 4 hours to strip. Again depending on the abv and if it pukes and inhave yo slowndown the first 30 mins.

  • GNS Continuous Still?

    Wow, I was way off.

    I got the 408w pg ph based on other continous threads.