Question about ProCap Plate Hole Sizes

I'm working on a building a dephlegmator and was thinking about using the ProCap plates instead of standard bubble cap plates for the build. I know the standard bubble cap plates work well with 1/2" copper pipes. However, I would like to know if the ProCap plates can be used with a standard US copper pipe size to fit the diameter of the holes in the plates? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Comments

  • Personally I would rather build the dephleg exactly as per one's / your requirement rather than adapt it per an existing bubble plate hole. Besides the holes are too big in a bubble plate.

  • Thanks for the reply, but this doesn't really answer my question. I'm not looking for build advice, I'm looking for hole diameter sizes. I'm pretty sure that the hole sizes in the either of the types of plates will be adequate in size to build a dephleg condenser depending on the length of the build.

  • edited September 2017

    @richard said: Besides the holes are too big in a bubble plate.

    Not really. Remember that a dephlegmator would have originally been set up as a partial condenser. Not really capable of 100% knockdown. Earlier versions were simple single tube in shell designs with no where near the surface area available like we now see in the shotgun designs.

    If the end user does not have to employ a very high reflux ratio, then a more traditional "partial condenser" is just fine. It'll keep the finished product that much closer to a pot stilled product. But if the end user is looking for 100% reflux then I agree with you Richard.

    The hole size for the ProCap is .913 mm (+ or -) which is very close to a 7/8" OD on your thru tube. It looks like 3/4 copper tube is .875 OD

    StillDragon North America - Your StillDragon® Distributor for North America

  • Thanks Smaug! This is what I needed without getting into the technical specs of my build.

  • Metric isn't Larry's strong point. .913mm is the diameter of one of his goatee hairs, the Procap holes are a smidge over 23mm diameter.

    StillDragon Australia & New Zealand - Your StillDragon® Distributor for Australia & New Zealand

  • edited September 2017

    you know I didnt even catch the .913 size. Thanks for the correction to a smidge over 23mm.
    :)

  • edited September 2017

    @punkin said: Metric isn't Larry's strong point. .913mm is the diameter of one of his goatee hairs, the Procap holes are a smidge over 23mm diameter.

    Oh sugar! Dang. Wrong setting on the do-hickey.... .913"

    StillDragon North America - Your StillDragon® Distributor for North America

  • @Hypnopooper what product do you plan on producing?

    StillDragon North America - Your StillDragon® Distributor for North America

  • edited September 2017

    You should have used the Chruler i sent you to measure Larry.

    StillDragon Australia & New Zealand - Your StillDragon® Distributor for Australia & New Zealand

  • edited September 2017

    @Smaug Mostly whiskey/bourbon. I used to own a commercial distillery in TX, from 2012 to 2015 but we were unable to endure commercially, I sold out but have a bunch of parts laying around and need a hobby... So working on finishing my 6" endeavor from years past.

    image

    TestFit2.jpg
    800 x 600 - 73K
  • @Hypnopooper said: Mostly whiskey/bourbon. I used to own a commercial distillery in TX, from 2012 to 2015 but we were unable to endure commercially, I sold out but have a bunch of parts laying around and need a hobby... So working on finishing my 6" endeavor from years past.

    Ok so with your whiskey you really do not need full knock down out of your reflux condenser. I would run the system with a pot stiller's mentality.

    StillDragon North America - Your StillDragon® Distributor for North America

  • I suggest the regular cap plates... Here is me building a 4" one, not sure I would do it again, without a lot of process improvement.. a full tank of helium was used, let alone hours and hours of testing and welding shut porous welds..

    It could be done fairly easy, however, if you had access to a brazing furnace.. and a stamping die to make the tubes fit extra tight to hold themselves, and to put an expansion ripple/ring in the copper plate before it met the stainless..

Sign In or Register to comment.