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My New Mash Tun Screen

So a new 300L variable capacity tank arrived and it was time to build a screen for the new mash-tun.

Here's the drawing:

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It consists of a base screen attached to a couple of supports. There's also a replica top screen to sit on top to allow me to close off the openings a little if needed.

Here's a view of the completed product from the underside (still needs a clean):

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Here's a view of the top:

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Fingers crossed this does the job for me.

Cheers,

Mech.

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Comments

  • Nice work Mech. :-bd

  • Nice, what hole size and spacing did you go with?

  • Excellent, you're obviously not using a fine crush. It looks great.

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  • I think another supporting ring midway...

  • @grim, it's 4mm holes at 6.5mm spacings centre to centre.

    @punkin, not sure how this will go with a fine crush, but I will be trying it. Figure I can pump back on top to help clear and the second screen on top allows me to close off more of the space if needed.

    @CothermanDistilling, you may be right! I just stood on the screen and reckon an extra ring would be good. I got this mesh from the wreckers ($15) and have just enough to add some extra support but not enough for a complete new ring.

    In the mean time if I run the second screen on top for extra support that will help.

  • Hey @TheMechWarrior, I sometimes wrap my false bottom screen with BIAB material, it drains slow, but it drains ;)

  • There's a thought and a good one too. Wonder how long extra to drain 2000 litres...

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  • Just did 70 lb corn in 35 gals water, racked first 20 gals out, less than 30 minutes for the rest, 10gals or so to drain out. Guess it depends on the size of the grain bits :-?

  • Well, this is a trial rig. I also have a 600L tank so it will be next with whatever works on the 300L tank. I can see a BIAB working as I've successfully used them in the past with the assistance of squeezing. In the absence of a good squeeze I'm not sure.

    Good news is I have long lengths of the BIAB material so a trial run is easy to do.

    The grain acts as a natural filter bed, so having large 4mm holes as I do shouldn't be a big issue so long as I recirculate the wort for the first minute or two before collecting.

    Trial run of the new screen sometime this month...

  • Not sure if this warrants a new thread, so I'm picking this one as it's close enough...

    I'm pondering some fermentation on the grain but am concerned about the draining after... until I stumbled across those guys.

    Looks like they have some good filter options for drums & buckets.

    => Does anyone have experience with using SS filters to separate the gains from the beer prior a run?

  • If you are in the states check out Utah biodiesel, I think they have a wider selection and a better value.

  • @Unsensibel the answer really comes down to your batch size and what you are prepared to put up with. I know pros that are "happy" to shovel the spent grain (600kg batches), bent over the mash tun. Bugger that, my back deserves better.

    I like the mash tuns with the side hatch that allow you to scrape the grain out.

    With my current setup, after the wort has fully drained I'll tip the drum. Drum tipper not made yet.

  • This guy took it to the next level, adding a side discharge on a 200L drum:

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    I was only planning on something like this:

    image

    image

    I seem to have lost the knack for links this morning...

    Electric 1.5 BBL Upgrade @ HomeBrewTalk

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  • @themechwarrior somehowco can only see one pic.

    For playing/experimenting buckets. Later upgrading to 55 gal and looking for options. The larger Speidel's have an internal mesh that lifts out. That way I could go with a heated mash tun and lift the grains or when done.

    Totally not into lifting if I don't have to. Only have one spine and no spare parts...

    @bachman - thanks! Now I'm also shopping for a diesel car ;)

  • Hoping @Moonshine can fix it, I appear to have broken things...again :-?

  • Fixed.

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  • edited April 2015

    I like that little tippy drum rig, but that massive box frame is overkill. In 55 gallons, I've got to imagine that the tippy drum beats out a man way hands down. If you get the pivot point right, it's going to be nearly effortless to dump the grain. Dicking around on your knees with that tiny opening sounds miserable. Wait that didn't come out sounding right...

  • I went with the converted milk tank route and honestly its not that bad moving the spent grain out of it with a shovel. Its at waist height and the shape of the tank makes it very easy to scoop out. 500 lbs in and I think its around 650 lbs out. I takes me about 8 hours to do 2 runs through the tun for a total of 500 gallons to ferment. I mash at a lower temperature(about 145-150) for 2 hours to create shorter sugar chains, my terminal gravity is at 1.000 or less. There are a few things that I can recommend when making a mash tun. I use 3 false bottoms/filters, my first one has 3/32" holes on 5/32" centers, which is 2.4mm holes, I still get grain pulled through, the 4mm might be a bit large, my second is 24 x tube screens under the first false bottom I made this from stainless wrapped tubing, I also have a trub strainer that is after my pump, but before my plate chiller. I haven't had any problems since implementing all 3 of those. I found my tank for free on craigslist and i don't think I could have set up a cheaper 10 bbl mash tun with an insulated steam jacket, agitator, and permanent pump/plate chiller, there is a reason why so many breweries convert milk tanks. One additional thing that has helped, my pump is a larger mag drive, it can push 37.5 gallons a minute, I have a butterfly valve at the discharge of the tank, this is either fully open of fully closed, right after the pump I have a ball valve that I ease into opening slowly so not to pull any grain through, with the mag drive pump this is the best way to slow down the flow, I run it as fast as my plate chiller will cool. Hope some of this will help.

  • edited May 2015

    The set up works extremely well, for what you would get a barrel set up going for you could easily do a milk tank

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  • How's the agitator holding up in the mash? We were thinking of putting something larger on our Mueller.

  • The agitator works perfect, no problem driving during mash, i dont run it during the sparge

  • ***and you would have 6x the capacity, if you went with a milk tank, the steam generator i built with SD parts works incredibly well for the milk tank's jacket

  • We are considering picking up a second 600g and using them to single vessel mash and open ferment.

    I agree, bargain, but only if you live close enough to dairy country.

  • I live in the heart of dairy country...can't bloody find one for looking! Plenty for sale across the other side of several hundred kilometers of ocean :(

  • Try scrap yards in farming... Look them up in the old fashioned yeller pages; from what I've seen they often have the best selection and prices. Shoot, they might even work with you on getting it shipped.

  • edited May 2015

    i was planning on driving to the midwest for one but lucked out on one in gunnison, which is about 2 hours away. i was gonna ask where you are located but then saw tasmania, not sure i can help you locate one there.

  • edited May 2015

    Are the lift-top style unique to North America? I didn't think so. Milkeeper, Dairicool, Mueller, Milkplan, Sunset, Mojonnier, etc.

    I know there is an alternative style, closed top with manways (Zero Style) - which are very popular with the Maple Syrup guys. Less useful for us if you are planning to shovel out spent grain, but probably great for rum.

  • I scored something similar than you @Telluride

    It came with a screen from the previous owner that IMHO seems to have to big of a hole size. Prior owner mentioned to me that it never really worked but then he was cooking a heavy corn mash and was able to distill on the grain...

    On your first screen, did you cover the edges with anything? It seems that the moving the screen in and out will scratch the surface of the tun. Also, the edges would allow for some grain to seep through if not 100% sealing.

  • I outfitted mine with basically two false bottoms, i have about 30 of the stainless braid sock sections connected to copper piping that goes beneath the stainless perf plates, the perf plates do most the work, but the braided socks are necessary

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