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1" BSP Element

I've having a big problem sourcing a 1" BSP heating element for the Milk Can in the UK. Seems 2.25" are standard here, I've phoned 4 suppliers only to be told that they don't stock 1". Any info would be great, can I get a 3kw 1" element in Europe?

Of all the beautiful things in the world, only man can invent boredom

Drinking rum before 11am doesn't make you an alcoholic, it makes you a Pirate

Comments

  • I've honestly never thought about any element below 4500W, which is why we always recommend the Camco Ripple (or Foldback) Ultra Low Watt Density ones.

    I'd probably go for the Ripple 4500W and use our DIY Controller Kit to run it up to ~66% if 3000W is the limit of your electrical circuitry (an added watt meter surely comes in handy).

    StillDragon Europe - Your StillDragon® Distributor for Europe & the surrounding area

  • Forgot to mention that the ones from the link above are for use in Europe (240V single phase) and ordering them from amazon.com to be shipped to Europe has already been done successfully.

    StillDragon Europe - Your StillDragon® Distributor for Europe & the surrounding area

  • Cheers Michael...looks like the best bet then.....I take it that the 15" (14.6") element will fit?? had the tape in and it looks like a tight fit.

    Of all the beautiful things in the world, only man can invent boredom

    Drinking rum before 11am doesn't make you an alcoholic, it makes you a Pirate

  • edited February 2015

    Measured from the 2" element port it's 375 mm till the inner wall on the other side, it's a close fit but from what I have heard the element can easily be bent a little if necessary.

    The regular foldback type is 11.2" long, so an easy fit for sure (I'm always eyeing on the 5500W model, which is only available as ripple, but the 4500W foldback is ultra low watt density as well). You definitely will want to go for the ultra low watt density type to prevent any scorching.

    StillDragon Europe - Your StillDragon® Distributor for Europe & the surrounding area

  • edited February 2015

    @Icefever said: I've having a big problem sourcing a 1" BSP heating element for the Milk Can in the UK.

    This is a problem. There is a wide range in both 2" and 2.25" but others are hard to find. 2" are available upto 12kW and 2.25" upto 18kW.

    I haven't yet found any with a 2" triclamp but there is a possibility that we can fit a 2.25" boss to a 3" triclamp. That way we could use one of our 2.25" elements and a 2" to 3" reducer. This is a future development though.

    For elements in UK sizes look at milkingmachines.co.uk

  • I'm game. I just need you to send an element to me.

  • I've have a look at the Camco elements from USA....but they are NPT thread, going into a BSP boss.

    Of all the beautiful things in the world, only man can invent boredom

    Drinking rum before 11am doesn't make you an alcoholic, it makes you a Pirate

  • The two threads are close to compatible. One is taper and one is parallel, the intention with the thread designs is to cut into each other to make the seal. The slight incompatibility is not a massive issue. Now you dont actually want to damage the threads so use PTFE thread tape to protect the threads and make the joint undoable. If that is even a correct word. ;)

  • @Myles said: the joint undoable. If that is even a correct word. ;)

    That'll do for me mate...undoable.. :)) we'll have that in the Oxford Dic in a matter of weeks..... B-)

    ps..thanks for the thread info..big weight off the noggin.

    Of all the beautiful things in the world, only man can invent boredom

    Drinking rum before 11am doesn't make you an alcoholic, it makes you a Pirate

  • US element threads are not NPT, they are NPS... anyone who has tried to screw an element into a half-coupling knows this the hard way... I have a couple 1" NPS taps if anyone ever needs one...

  • edited February 2015

    If it's not something that @SDeurope stock i have them on my site in 3 different wattages and a few different lengths.
    2400, 3600 and 4800 watts at 240v. 1" BSP, Incolloy coated.

    StillDragon Australia & New Zealand - Your StillDragon® Distributor for Australia & New Zealand

  • If the element is a straight thread and not a taper thread it might be a bit more difficult. I would be tempted to buy an element that you know will fit and reserve the one you have for some other use. No point damaging the triclamp adaptor for the sake of an element.

  • @Icefever Dumb question - if you're going w/ SD milk can, why not order the element kit (as it works with the Camco ULWD elements)? Problem solved...

  • @Unsensibel probably not a dumb question at all. Perhaps I am the daft one as I just assumed that Icefever had sourced a bsp to triclamp adaptor and couldn't find a bsp element.

    @Icefever which adaptor have you got?

  • @Icefever already has our Element Guard Kit, but unfortunately we do not offer any elements so far (that's something we intend to add to our product catalog later on).

    StillDragon Europe - Your StillDragon® Distributor for Europe & the surrounding area

  • @Unsensibel said: Icefever Dumb question - if you're going w/ SD milk can, why not order the element kit (as it works with the Camco ULWD elements)? Problem solved...

    As Michael as said I ordered the kit....I now have an element sorted.

    Of all the beautiful things in the world, only man can invent boredom

    Drinking rum before 11am doesn't make you an alcoholic, it makes you a Pirate

  • Ok. I just ordered one of Amazon and it has served me well... No scorching or anything so far even when running it full throttle at heatup

  • I also use a Camco 5500 ultra low watt in my 15 gal keg boiler with no issues. Was kind of a bitch to get through the element kit because of the S shape but with a running start I got it through. No scorching but I filter the crap out of anything that goes in.

  • I just got 2 Camco 3500w 240v Ultra low-watt dencity elements. Perfect with 16amps fuses.

    Camco 02912/02913 3500W 240V Screw-In Lime Life Foldback Water Heater Element - Ultra Low Watt Density @ Amazon

    And with SD tri-clamp adapters and Element Guard Kits I can use them both in my milk can and my brew-kettle.

  • And here is one in my brewkettle:

    image

    brew_kettle_element.jpg
    800 x 450 - 36K
  • @Lloyd said: I'm game. I just need you to send an element to me.

    This may now be redundant. The reason we used the UK spec elements in the past is because that was all we had available. If we have a convenient source for 1" elements I would use those instead.

    In the UK the 2.25" (and more recently 2") are the standard industrial heater sizes in powers up to 18kW. Someone decided to use the same size on 3kW domestic water heaters, which is why we are stuck with it.

    Some of the new domestic boilers are coming in now with a 1.75" thread which is even harder to find fittings for.

    The only reason I can think of for using our UK spec is for commercial users that want bigger or 3 phase elements, as these might be hard to fit into a 1" size.

  • would a 2" element to 2" tri-clover EGK be feasible/possible? I see noting wrong with us coming up with a SD EGK for a larger element size, especially if it were to also fit some 3-phase elements...

  • UK elements are a BSP thread size. This is bigger than you might think.

    2" bsp thread has a major diameter of 59.6mm. The outer dia of 2" pipe is 60.3mm. A 2.25" bsp weld on boss is just about the same size as a 3" tri clamp ferrule.

    You would probably struggle to get a 2" element into a 2" blanking cap. Now a UK element into a 3" triclamp might be an option but really, how many folks actually need 12kw or 18kW elements? They probably have flanged bolt in alternatives available.

    I suspect at those element sizes they are likely to be using steam anyway.

  • the 12kw/18kw would be what 380L direct, and maybe what all new BM mash and boiler could use.

    The use of these can reduce wiring, reduce complexity, reduce space used for connectors on control panel, and also reduce I^2R losses in the wire if using 3-phase.

  • @CothermanDistilling in the UK this size element is also available in the bolt in flanged option, and these could be available in your region also.

    These multiple coil elements are a bit bigger so it might be worth increasing the element port on the boilers to a 3" fitting if you were intending to use them.

    The industrial 2" bsp versions tend to come with IP rated terminal enclosures.

  • Agreed, 3" may be be something for Lloyd to look at for the new kettles/ mash tuns, etc... One 3" is cheaper than 3 2" fittings, and you could wire up the elements with single pole wiring if the user did not have 3-phase.

    Now, with all that considered, would the 3-phase heating element portion fit through a 2" fitting? I know the threads would not, but if the elements do, that is all that is needed...

  • Well thats easy enough. Take the 12kW 2" bsp version. 3 phase, 3 independent coils in a single boss. The 2" bsp thread has a minimum thread dimension of 2.23 inches so the element is smaller than that. It all boils down to the minimum curve radius of the element rods.

    Even if the element rods did fit my concern would be that it is just a bit too tight. I would be worried about overheating in such a confined space. You might get a hot spot on the element that would reduce the life. Increase to a 3" tube and you get more space for fluid circulation, and that will increase the useful life of the element.

    Remember these elements typically screw into a boss on a flat tank wall, so there is plenty of fluid circulation around the element. Put it in even a short tube and ýou might get a local hot spot.

  • elements don't start heating for the first inch, but yes, you need to make the adapter as short as possible... I agree that in a perfect world we would not use a 2", but there is not a boiler with 3" available yet....

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