4" Crystal Dragon Configuration

tipk99

Hey all, I've ordered and received a 4" Crystal Dragon, Milk Can boiler and a Gin Basket too... as I work on getting my DSP I figured I'd learn how to use the stills making some essential oils..............

Anyway.

Is there a Crystal Dragon manual? I can't find one... and I'm curious about a few parts, for those of you who have one of them.

Is the "sight tower" just the bottom and top compression collars? So essentially I take the sight tower apart, build the column using those parts... and it looks like I need to supply my own all-thread. Any idea what length of all-thread for a 4 plate 4" column?

Also, what's the "custom gasket" for?

Sorry if I'm slow... and thanks for the help.

Tom

punkin

I'll let Larry answer the supply questions mate as i do it a little different in Aus, but as far as the manual goes the Dash manual will have all the info you need except the how to assemble.

I've written a short post from my experience building a couple that may help.

Lloyd

The rod length is the one variable that I can't overcome as the column can contain any number of glass chimneys so the all-thread rods are something that you need to source and cut to length. Please don't over-tighten. It takes very little pressure to seal the glass.

tipk99

What diameter allthread? 3/8"?

Thanks for the help!

Lloyd

The hole is 10mm so 3/8" rod would work well.

tipk99

Thanks guys... Another question, a bit off topic. What approx flow rate pump do you use to circ cooling water to dephleg and pc? I've got a 5500 w element.

captainshooch

@tipk99 on the rods 3/8" will work however I use 5/16" and works well also (just what I could find ATM). On flow rate I use a March 809, upgraded to March 815 for cooling water circulation. On a normal run I see a flow rate of 0.4 GPM thru the Deph and 1.0 GPM flow rate thru the PC as plenty of flow and often I see it needs even less than that assuming your cooling water reservoir temps stay below 27C. The SD needle valve for flow rate control make it super easy to dial in the flow rate very accurately.

tipk99

OK, so an update, and more questions still...

3/8 allthread doesn't actually work. It's about the exact diameter of the holes. 5/16 however, is perfect.

But, I'm still not sure how to put the damn thing together. I have this piece called the "4" Sight Tower" that appears to be made of the top and bottom compression parts, plus a 4" glass tube. However, this glass tube has thicker walls than all the other glass tubes I got (4, with a 4 plate system). So none of the gaskets that came with the set-up fit. (Other than the one sided gaskets that go with the top and bottom compression rings.

I was assuming that I take the top off the 4" Sight Tower, and stack the other glass tuber with gaskets and bubble plates on top of that, and then put the stainless compression top back on... then insert the all thread rods and tighten gently. But that doesn't work. I feel a bit like a fool... can anyone please tell me how they built up their 4" CD?

Thanks

Tom

Lloyd

Hi Tom, there was some confusion at the factory that assembled the sight towers for us. Some of the glass used in the sight towers were not to SD specs. In fact, some of the individual glass sections were shipped in 8" size and not to our specs.
I think we have under control now and sorry for the problem. Please contact your distributor for a replacement glass.

Just curious, is the ID or OD too big or too small? The gasket could be trimmed to accommodate the glass.

And good to know about the allthread size. Everything is metric here.

tipk99

Lloyd,

The OD of the glass that came with the Sight Tower was spot on... the ID was too small, effectively making the wall too thick to fit in the gaskets that came with the rest of the CD kit. I suppose the inner lip of the gasket could be trimmed to make that half the gasket flat... but it seems the seal wouldn't be as good as if the glass actually fit into the groove... which also begs another question... Why aren't the gaskets that come with the Sight Tower also grooved to fit the glass? They don't have the inner lip - it seems they'd be better if they were just half of the same gasket that comes with the CD kit.

I can call Larry tomorrow to discuss. Thanks for the heads up.

Tom

Lloyd

You can trim it, the seal will be fine. Just the lip, not all the way through. It has to be done on the 8" CD flange section too.
The CD gaskets are custom made for us and the sight tower gasket is not - it simply comes with the sight tower.
The CD gasket is designed to help line up the glass sections and to capture the plate.

The sight tower is used by the food, dairy and beverage industry, its not unique to StillDragon. In those industries having the internal lip would be a cause of concern as its a place that nasties could grow. They don't have our advantage of high proof alcohol to kill those.

CothermanDistilling

I used 8mm stainless all-thread, (same OD as 5/16", but different pitch) it wasn't really any more money than 5/16, and I could re-use the nuts from the sight tower.. it was in stock at a local fastener store... if anyone orders a CD, just go get the 8mm stuff while you are waiting for your CD to arrive... Also, I really like my rods that just have the 8mm welded into the end of 1/4" stainless pipe..(about 1/2" OD, 5/16-3/8" ID)

tipk99

Is there a big problem using zinc all thread?

And I suppose I'll just trim one of the gaskets, and have one section of the column have a big beefy glass piece... seems like putting it on the bottom makes the most sense...

Thanks, I'll give this all a try. If I totally F#)*k up the gasket, can I get another one? :)

Tom

Lloyd

Sure, zinc all thread will be fine, just gets dirty easier.
Yes, I'll make sure you get another gasket if you ruin that one, least I can do as it was my mistake (taking responsibility for a key SD factory that, like us, works more in SS than glass).

Law_Of_Ohms

Expect some galvanic corrosion if you mix zinc and stainless.

CothermanDistilling

looks more like the zinc wore off/thin due to welding... not that I would want that in my still...

punkin

LoO,s point is valid though. Stainless won,t rust and you won,t get galvanic reactions. Couple extra bucks now to look after your still for the next 100 years or more.