Is this OK for a Mash Tun?

For years the only spirits I have made are UJSSM and Gin, Having my still automated and noticing the discussion going towards using a PID for mashing, I though I might give AG a go. I found this 90lt SS ex water heater and managed to get it for $50, it has an element fitted in it which goes vertically through the center. Would I be better fitting another element horizontally? an then I can use the element fitting for a drain. I have to get a bit of welding done to block off the other inlets so I might as well get all done at once.

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  • If you are going to use an element in a mash tun I would assume Biab? Definitely run the element horizontally. And use the bottom as a drain. Use a false bottom above the element so the bag can't touch it. My 2c

    Score on the Ss heater btq.

  • edited April 2014

    He had a 1200lt SS tank there too, but thats too big for me.

  • You could set it up with a Still Dragon RIMs tube on the side and recirculate through it. Google recirculation during mashing and there's lots of info on it.

  • Rims would suit it perfectly. There's another way you can go OD, depending what you want to do (make beer or not) and use a big esky as a mash tun.

    I have a 120l esky with a simple copper manifold for draining off the grain and it's VERY easy if i wanted to do a scotch wash in it.

    1) Download free http://www.brewmate.net/ that gives you all the temperatures and quantities you need to make the wash you want in the quantity you want at the strength you want.

    2) Heat water in any boiler (i use my 120l still boiler) to the temp that the program tells you and either pump or bucket the amount of water it tells you you need into the mash tun. Add the crushed grains and stir till they are all wet and check the temp is where it's suppossed to be (always will be after a couple of goes to get used to it). Close the esky lid, throw a blanket over it and walk away for an hour.

    3) After an hour, drain the wort into a fermenter, stick it in the fridge or some ice water and pitch the yeast at 20-22C.

    You could do a false bottom for your tank if you used a length of hose braiding instead of a manifold, it works pretty well.

    Of course all this goes out the window the minute corn is mentioned. :))

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  • edited April 2014

    You can achieve the same results in a single vessel with a bag punkin:) (Did I just say that out loud? :O )

    I am still yet to use my rims. This weekend hopefully. One thing I have my doubts about is will it achieve a rolling boil? Not essential for a wash but for my beers.

    3600w rims in 100L. Im thinking I will have to run another element after the mash is done to get it boiling. Something I was hoping to avoid

  • With the bottom drain that'd work well with a false bottom. Then run a RIMs like others suggested or a HERMs would work just fine too. Or if you are good at your strike water calculations you could wrap it with insulation and let the thermal mass carry you through sacrification and you would likely only lose a degree or two Fahrenheit.

  • I will probably rig it for BIAB to start with then set it up with a sensor and a PID

  • @olddog said: I will probably rig it for BIAB to start with then set it up with a sensor and a PID

    Sorry OD, not sure what you mean. I've never seen a mash tun with a temp sensor. They go on the output of your RIMS / HERMS to ensure you don't scorch the wort

  • I will be doing brew in a bag, and I will need to stabilize the temperature at 66c for around 90 minutes

  • easy enough to do by calculating your strike water temp (incorporating the crushed grain temp) & having plenty of insulation on your tun & making sure you put an insulated lid on it.

  • edited April 2014

    You still have to heat the strike water. which means either a hlt with an element or an element with temp sensor in the the mash tun

  • I am new with AG, how hot is the strike water?

  • edited April 2014

    Punkin shared a link earlier. Brewmate. It should have a calculator for how hot your initial mash strike water should be for how much grain you add to the water. So when you add the grain you end up with the mash temp that you want because the thermal mass changes. Very handy if you are just using an insulated mash tun without the use of an element

  • Thanks for that

  • edited April 2014

    I have a temp sensor on my esky mash tun. I should have put it midway instead of at the bottom is all though. I got the temp gauge and sensor from ebay. The compression fittings from my local bearing supply store.

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