Mostly StillDragon VM Build Questions

nmstillin

I am about to start piecing together my 2" StillDragon modular, and had some questions about going VM with mostly parts from here.

My first configuration will be a simple pot still with the 2in long product condenser, 45&90 degree bends, a 12" piece of triclamp pipe, and a surge breaker. I went a little bigger on the triclamp pipe and condenser to make scaling up a little easier.

Next I will probably add 2 bubble tees and a reflux condenser to get a packed column hybrid. I'd like to use the same reflux condenser for the VM too. Would a regular 2in product condenser be able to achieve full reflux in VM mode? I feel like it would have little to no problem with bubble plates, but I wouldn't want anything to vent out of the top. What would be a better option for a reflux condenser if that's not going to work?

For the VM I would add a 2x2x2 tee, and a 2in ball valve.
For VM that would be: Boiler->12in pipe -> 20in pipe -> 2x2x2 tee -> (above) regular condenser (side) ball valve -> 90bend -> long product shotgun -> surge breaker.

Pot still
Boiler-> 12in pipe ->90bend ->45bend -> long shotgun -> surge breaker

2 Plate/packed column hybrid
Boiler -> 3x2 concentric reducer -> 3in bubble tee -> 3in bubble tee -> 3x2 concentric reducer -> 12in packed column -> regular product condenser -> 90bend -> 45bend -> product condenser.

Everything look good there? Any changes you would make?

I'll probably get a gin head at some point, but until then I will probably rerun neutral spirits diluted to 40% in pot still mode with a cotton bag of botanicals on top of my perf plates.

punkin

I don't think you are going to get the kind of resolution and fine adjustment you will need with a 2"ballvalve on the VM. A 1" gate valve or even 3"4 gate valve is much better suited to a 2"column. I'd also highly recomend a TW tee so you can monitor temp and also a weld in thermo half way up your column would be handy if you have someone that could do it for you

We don't do 3" bubbletees.

Other than those points it should all work ok, i would expect. There are some guys on here with SD VM's if you hold out they may have some more tips for you.

nmstillin

@punkin said: I don't think you are going to get the kind of resolution and fine adjustment you will need with a 2"ballvalve on the VM. A 1" gate valve or even 3"4 gate valve is much better suited to a 2"column. I'd also highly recomend a TW tee so you can monitor temp and also a weld in thermo half way up your column would be handy if you have someone that could do it for you

OK, that helps, thanks. Would the short 2x3/4 reducers be OK for going into the gate valve?

@punkin said:

We don't do 3" bubbletees.

Mostly SD parts ;). Though I might get the itch to go 4in bubble tees when the time comes.

Thanks a bunch!

punkin

i'd be inclined to use a 90 bend and the a 2 X 3/4 or 1 inch bsp threaded reducer. That way you are going to get the full flow at the price of a little pooling. The 3/4 triclamp fittings are quite small in the ID.

Myles

You ought to play with Dragon Drop on the Home site and put up a plan of your proposed build so we can see it. Especially when it comes to orientation of the VM head.

This is an example for a pot still.

Personally I don't think I would ever build an in-line VM version again, and would always go for the offset version with the T blocking the vapour path entirely, to split it into 2 streams going horizontally into product and reflux condensers.

Myles

If it is any help I sketched out these some time ago as an outline for an SD VM Head.

First one has reflux condenser on the right, and product side on the left, using another dephlegmator as an alternative to a valve. Technically this could be seen to be a VM/CM hybrid.

Next is the more conventional VM/LM option using a valve. I have posted these before somewhere.