I personally don't think that the end cap that mounts the cord grip needs to be TC. There is a new company in Canada brewha and they have worked with Kal from theelectricbrewery to designs what is essentially a TC electrical box. This gives lots of room to wire the element and maybe even mount a controller with heatsink.
I have never seen one but I would imagine that there are gaskets where the box and end plates mount to each other. Kal's version is made using an exterior grade electrical box.
We have enough ancillary odds and ends in stock that any one can also execute a j-box build with SD parts as well. Just need to stop and look for a second or two and pick up your own j-box.
Our turn key kits are meant as low profile as possible.
I have some of those that were purchased from stout tanks by a professional brewer, they have the element epoxied into the box, then a threaded 1.5" TC ferrule is screwed on... I like the SD one better. and I like 2" better.
I like this one from brewers hardware, but I bet it is heavy with that DIN fitting.
I agree with CothermanDistilling I have a hillbillys element kit and have had nothing but trouble with it
The SD ones are just simple and seal really well
I would be stearing away from the J box design
Once the kit is together it's pretty well indestructible
Please don't get me wrong. I'm in no way endorsing the J-Box design. Smaug can attest that I have now purchased 8 of the SD units and am promoting them to my friends as the best unit for mounting an element to a keg or pot whether it be for distilling or brewing. I was just trying to point out that tri clamp is not the only choice when it comes to sealing the end cap if space is needed to mount other items like SSRs or knobs. The units that I got today seem to be the new design with the offset larger hole. @Lloyd@Smaug, did you guys manage to get these out much faster than anticipated
No, @thunder88, what you received recently was an updated version of the end cap but the next generation is being made now with high hopes that they will be ready to ship in time for USA's final sea freight of this year.
We are always listening to customers and trying to improve every item, that's the StillDragon way.
Next generation will have the hole sized to accommodate the larger PG19 cord grip (cable gland) and the large hole and grounding lug spaced for easier assembly.
Just received my first SD element guards. I see three grounding attachment points. I can imagine one attached to boiler, one to ground. Is third attachment point for those using 10/3 wiring with essentially two grounds? I had an electrician install a new GFCI breaker and had him run 10/2 wire to a NEMA 6L outlet. I refer to this as "2 hot, 1 ground".
I realize that in different countries, different rules apply, so don't listen to this if it doesn't make perfect sense.
A nice way to attach a ground to stainless is to use a capacitor discharge gun which welds a screw without leaving any discoloration. I don't have access to one directly so just TIG a bolt on and attach ground wire there.
@CothermanDistilling said:
I have some of those that were purchased from stout tanks by a professional brewer, they have the element epoxied into the box, then a threaded 1.5" TC ferrule is screwed on... I like the SD one better. and I like 2" better.
I like this one from brewers hardware, but I bet it is heavy with that DIN fitting.
I have that one @CothermanDistilling and it is very heavy but also very well made.
that one is a 1-1/2" tri-clamp, the outside lip may measure 2", but it is 1-1/2 for sure, that is what all the home brewers started with, I am convincing folks to go 2" for ease of use and the quality of the SD EG..
First attempt with a PG-19 says it will not fit. I've spent a couple of hours looking back through what others had used with this wire but can't find anything. Might have been on a homebrew site. Would prefer to not enlarge the hole. Anyone remember running across this bulletin board information? Was a metal of some type. Don't care what material, just need sturdy, safe strain relief. The PG-16's that came with the kits fit the wire from my hardware store perfectly.
For a modular design there is more then one way to skin a cat. This is an option that SD may want to look into.
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600 x 800 - 108K
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600 x 800 - 114K
The day you quit learning is the day you start dying!
"I am an incurable gadgeteer, and I like enormously to set up a theory and then track down the consequences" Murray Leinster
youtube.com/watch?v=08e9k-c91E8
Fabricated out of a 2" end cap, center pointed 1" NPT, the cord ends a push twist locks that I modified to fit the nut of the element.
1.jpg
600 x 800 - 120K
2.jpg
600 x 800 - 82K
The day you quit learning is the day you start dying!
"I am an incurable gadgeteer, and I like enormously to set up a theory and then track down the consequences" Murray Leinster
youtube.com/watch?v=08e9k-c91E8
Comments
I personally don't think that the end cap that mounts the cord grip needs to be TC. There is a new company in Canada brewha and they have worked with Kal from theelectricbrewery to designs what is essentially a TC electrical box. This gives lots of room to wire the element and maybe even mount a controller with heatsink.
That box is just for wires?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ty6eY9VUIgI
Yes only for wires. Pretty sure there's enough room in there for an SSR mounted to one side and pot and have the heatsink on the outside.
Looks difficult to waterproof.
StillDragon Australia & New Zealand - Your StillDragon® Distributor for Australia & New Zealand
I have never seen one but I would imagine that there are gaskets where the box and end plates mount to each other. Kal's version is made using an exterior grade electrical box.
I wouldn't want to have to bend down to adjust a built-in controller at element height.
We have enough ancillary odds and ends in stock that any one can also execute a j-box build with SD parts as well. Just need to stop and look for a second or two and pick up your own j-box.
Our turn key kits are meant as low profile as possible.
StillDragon North America - Your StillDragon® Distributor for North America
I have some of those that were purchased from stout tanks by a professional brewer, they have the element epoxied into the box, then a threaded 1.5" TC ferrule is screwed on... I like the SD one better. and I like 2" better.
I like this one from brewers hardware, but I bet it is heavy with that DIN fitting.
I agree with CothermanDistilling I have a hillbillys element kit and have had nothing but trouble with it The SD ones are just simple and seal really well I would be stearing away from the J box design Once the kit is together it's pretty well indestructible
I'm in the market for another EGK also
Please don't get me wrong. I'm in no way endorsing the J-Box design. Smaug can attest that I have now purchased 8 of the SD units and am promoting them to my friends as the best unit for mounting an element to a keg or pot whether it be for distilling or brewing. I was just trying to point out that tri clamp is not the only choice when it comes to sealing the end cap if space is needed to mount other items like SSRs or knobs. The units that I got today seem to be the new design with the offset larger hole. @Lloyd @Smaug, did you guys manage to get these out much faster than anticipated
No, @thunder88, what you received recently was an updated version of the end cap but the next generation is being made now with high hopes that they will be ready to ship in time for USA's final sea freight of this year.
We are always listening to customers and trying to improve every item, that's the StillDragon way.
Next generation will have the hole sized to accommodate the larger PG19 cord grip (cable gland) and the large hole and grounding lug spaced for easier assembly.
This is the sample that was ordered before the production began.
@Lloyd, the offset hole of the updated version still makes it easier to open the hole up with a die grinder to accommodate the larger cord grip.
Just received my first SD element guards. I see three grounding attachment points. I can imagine one attached to boiler, one to ground. Is third attachment point for those using 10/3 wiring with essentially two grounds? I had an electrician install a new GFCI breaker and had him run 10/2 wire to a NEMA 6L outlet. I refer to this as "2 hot, 1 ground".
I realize that in different countries, different rules apply, so don't listen to this if it doesn't make perfect sense.
A nice way to attach a ground to stainless is to use a capacitor discharge gun which welds a screw without leaving any discoloration. I don't have access to one directly so just TIG a bolt on and attach ground wire there.
I have that one @CothermanDistilling and it is very heavy but also very well made.
It is 1.5"?
Everyone seems to need/want 2".
The brewers hardware is 2 inch triclamp
that one is a 1-1/2" tri-clamp, the outside lip may measure 2", but it is 1-1/2 for sure, that is what all the home brewers started with, I am convincing folks to go 2" for ease of use and the quality of the SD EG..
2" ferulle measures around 63mm
StillDragon Australia & New Zealand - Your StillDragon® Distributor for Australia & New Zealand
I felt a bit stupid when I didn't think about the clamps doing the grounding around the gaskets. Glad I didn't weld a grounding stud on.
New question, I bought some of the ebay wire which is .666 inches, or over 17mm diameter:
9' Line Cord With Marinco L6-30 Loocking Plug 30Amp 250Volt 10/3 Soow Cord
First attempt with a PG-19 says it will not fit. I've spent a couple of hours looking back through what others had used with this wire but can't find anything. Might have been on a homebrew site. Would prefer to not enlarge the hole. Anyone remember running across this bulletin board information? Was a metal of some type. Don't care what material, just need sturdy, safe strain relief. The PG-16's that came with the kits fit the wire from my hardware store perfectly.
HUBBELL WIRING DEVICE-KELLEMS - Cord Connector, .625-.75 In, 1/2In Conduit @ Grainger
That's not what I had in mind originally, but at least it should work.
Would this be a better place to get your stuff and even save you money? Are you in the US? http://www.stilldragon.com/diy-controller.html
For a modular design there is more then one way to skin a cat. This is an option that SD may want to look into.
The day you quit learning is the day you start dying!
"I am an incurable gadgeteer, and I like enormously to set up a theory and then track down the consequences" Murray Leinster youtube.com/watch?v=08e9k-c91E8
Sorry, it's no good because I didn't think of it.
.
.
Just kidding of course. =))
It's a clever solution and I'd like to actually have the parts in my hands to play with.
@Manofconstantsorrow Where did you get that connector?
Fabricated out of a 2" end cap, center pointed 1" NPT, the cord ends a push twist locks that I modified to fit the nut of the element.
The day you quit learning is the day you start dying!
"I am an incurable gadgeteer, and I like enormously to set up a theory and then track down the consequences" Murray Leinster youtube.com/watch?v=08e9k-c91E8
Nice work.