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Best way to configure two element kits

I am currently working on welding two electric heating element kits into my kettle. Before I cut holes into my unit I am curious if there is any one better configuration -vs- another. Is there a concern with locating the heating elements to close in proximity to each othere within the solution; is it best to stack them one over the other on one side or weld the ferrules on opposing sides of the kettle one over the other. I have also read that some have been concerned that they had put their fill port over their elements. What would this affect? I am using a 15.5 gal. keg. I'm just getting started on this journey and have enjoyed reading the very informative blogs posted on many aspects of this new hobby. I have found alot of patience and respect for questions asked even when the person asking the question was concerned that it may be a dumb question. I may be asking some myself. Thanks

Best Answers

  • edited September 2013 Answer ✓


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  • edited September 2013 Answer ✓

    Just a comment, with the element ports they do stick out a bit with guards and cables, so it may depend on where you have yours setup.

    I've just had a keg done with 2 ports set fairly down low, but not opposite each-other, a bit offset so the elements cant touch. I did use the long ferrules however on mine.

    The next one I'd chuck them more at the back of the keg, as it would suit my set up better (and get a bigger,18gal keg!)




  • Yes thank you very much. That is pretty much what I had in mind. Nice scooter.

  • Don't mind me, I just wanted to mention the phrase ELEMENT GUARD to have it appear in the text, so that this discussion is properly found if searched for. ;)

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  • Yeah, well, its still a classic.

  • Thanks fadge and Lloyd. Both setups are proven and must work great. I like the fill port fadge, I bought the goods to do that as well. I did purchased the 6" ferrule for the top as I liked the idea of having access for cleaning and any other potential need to get to the inside. My plan was to put the element ports to the back and try to keep things in the front as clean as possible. The keg I am converting is one that had a rubber top and bottom that I peeled off so there are no top or bottom collars on it. I am going to need to build a stand or some nice legs like fadge's. 18 gallon keg is an odd size. I'm a brewer by trade and have handled a bazillion kegs but never an 18. My future plan after I'm up and running and comfortable with this process is to cut the bottom out of 1 keg and the top out of another and weld them together approaching the 25-30 gallon range. Thanks again for the great info.

  • That's 18 imperial gallons (21.6 us gallons) we used to use in Australia back when bad backs were part of work and if you weren't tough enough you found another job.

    Still remember manhandling them up stairs as a young bloke.

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  • On mine I fitted them both as low as I could manage. I have 1 long element and 1 short one, both 3 kW. I decided to fit mine at the front because the vapour path is bolted to the wall. That way I can change an element if I need to without moving the boiler.


    When I add the stand and get rid of the wood blocks, I will position the boiler in the corner to make the 2 elements more accessible. This is just a dry run to help decide where the power and coolant need to be fitted.

    6kW pot still.jpg
    521 x 700 - 89K
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