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Another DIY Controller Kit Question

Hey guys, I've been lurking around here for a bit checking out the work you've all done on your control boxes. I've ordered the kit from the SD AUS store and here's what I've put together for my design. I was hoping to get some feedback from you guys before I wire it up. It's going to be controlling a 4500w Blichmann Boilcoil and running off the 20 amp power point in my shed.

I'm going to be adding in an 80mm 240v PC fan I have here as well as a digital ammeter that I've ordered from eBay. Along with one of these switches to control power to the whole unit.

What do you think? Anyone see potential issues?



800 x 667 - 46K
800 x 857 - 30K


  • My two cents worth ........ stay well clear of that plastic isolation switch and order a proper isolation switch as you would expect to find on an electrical panel.

  • If you have a DPST is there any point putting the blue one through the switch too??

  • edited July 2016

    You'll kill that switch fast if you turn the device on and off at full load.

    Little toggle switches like that aren't made to switch 20-25 amps, even ones that say they are rated for it, aren't going to last. Personally, I like to switch power using a contactor or relay, where the on/off switch is typically switching very low current or better, low voltage. It wouldn't last a week before you smoked the contacts.

  • @grim said: Personally, I like to switch power using a contactor or relay, where the on/off switch is typically switching very low current or better, low voltage.

    That's what mine has. A normally open relay that is also hooked up to feed pumps plus can be triggered by low flowswitch and high temp feed water safety shutoff.

  • Awesome guys, thanks for your input. So I should look at adding another relay and switching the power with that?

  • What's the point of the switch? Is there one at the outlet?
    I guess it depends how complicated you want it. As mentioned, if you're after a kill switch, using that switch to control a contactor would be better.

  • No real point except that I want it! I guess when you put it that way it's just overcomplicating things.

  • A switch on the controller is very handy if your power point is not easy to reach or you have a longer lead etc. Being able to flick off quickly will save you some greif one day, that's my opinion anyway. An indicator light or simply the back light on the power meter is also real handy nice to tell at a clance when it is turned on. I always try to have the pot turned off, low as it goes before applying power and when turning off. Nice graphics presented..


  • Can the switch just go on the SSR signal?

  • not sure how the SSVR would react with an open control circuit

  • use a real panel mount circuit breaker... sure it might only last 10,000 times instead of 100,000.. who cares?


    240 x 320 - 9K
  • I must be honest ..... In this type of application, I would have switched both neutral and live.

    I believe a lot in belts and braces approach.

  • FWIW (as I haven't put mine together yet....Thankfully the long weekend is here) I picked up a 'Spa Pack' off ebay which has a GFI breaker in it. The plan being to take the breaker and insert it into my control panel.

  • edited July 2016

    I've got a bigass 60A contactor on the wall. just for the SD controller. It's kinda overkill, but buying already in the box, with everything except the old big cylindrical fuses, was pretty cheap (from McMaster-Carr, IIRC).
    This one, I think, although I remem ber it being closer to 60 bucks.

    Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller

    my book, Making Fine Spirits

  • Thanks for all the advice guys. I think I do want a switch on there as fadge says, the power point is a little out of the way and it would be great to be able to switch if off quickly.

    Could I just switch the SSR? Or is a contactor really just the best solution?

    And thanks richard, I think I will switch the neutral as well. Better to be safe....

  • Get a small piece of din rail and mount a breaker and contactor in the box. You can use the little toggle switch, but it will be switching the contactor, after the breaker.

    You could probably get the parts off eBay or similar for another 30 or 40 bucks.

  • Keatch is in Australia guys.

    StillDragon Australia & New Zealand - Your StillDragon® Distributor for Australia & New Zealand

  • I'm a dummy, I see that now in his post. Thanks punkin

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