A small Commercially Distillery built in Sweden from scratch, adapted to Swedish Laws and Regulation

harley

Update: Now my boiler almost finished and be be downloaded from the AM Technique here in Falköping. Once you WANT to hit the police when you see no sign of them ... but people almost drove off the road when I was driving with this rig right through the town ....

Cheers

Lloyd

@harley said: ... but people almost drove off the road when I was driving with this rig right through the town ....

You drive your still with a forklift, I drive mine with 6000 watts =))
I cause no traffic problems but only get 3+ little liters per hour.

Your still and your forklift both look great!!!

Smaug

Zat iss looking wary wary goot Harley :D

harley

Latest Investment, To be used to having whiskey - raw booze in until 500 liters is made and then dropped it on barrel by gravity .... 2500 swedish kronor.

This feels both hygienic as safe ... Cheers

SDeurope

@harley, let me tell you that it's VERY exciting to follow your progress!

Is that container specifically made for that purpose?

It looks like a fermenter, but the label only says vätskecontainer = liquid container.

harley

Hi, This stainless steel "container" is originally made ​​for the storage and transport of Tinner - solvents so it is also rated for this, then I have no problems with the explosives inspection when I store as much as 500 liters in the same container.

Cheers

harley

Now I understand why no one had time to help me (on payment) .... to TIG weld this when I have trials in a number of hours( my first TIG welding in life) and can confirm that TIG welding is not chord wise if there is to be "mediocre", we're talking about 15-20 meters weld bead totally down on the floor .... Scratch tig (tig debris) is no picnic for deforming the tip a little every time you turn on the tig weld and then it will go worse and worse each time, until you end up being forced to grind to the forefront again .... Now it will be stainless steel wire in my MIG-mag welder so it will be ready sometime I like that when it goes fast.....

Cheers

FullySilenced

Harley, are you planning to pump the concrete into the building from the truck? or is there a large door?

harley

Hi Fs, it a large door and there a shall pump in the concrete or take it in front of my loader. i only need about 2m3 and it shall only be about 5-7cm thick with concrete.

I will put in 10cm thick styrofoam and then I smooth with the top of all drains and then it will be between 5-7cm thick concrete on this with a arming mat in the middle.

harley

harley

Here are virtually all images on the premises stuck in reverse order ...

harley

This is a 8" - 203mm sive plates with 1,5mm hole stansed in 4mm pattern to relly get max out of it, it is almoust 10% hole % of the wet active plate area and it is about 1750pc 1,5mm hole stansed in eatch plate and a 28mm regular pipe for return licuid.... and offcourse returnpipe in air for maximum plate area to use , and yes a relly nowe that an little crasy about my sieve plates, but this is so good and a simpel and cheap solution so a think that a have taken this to the limit now, it issnt going to be better in a 8" column than this.... Cheers

harley

Corrected calculations:

97,70mm column diameter between 2pc 4” ferrules = wet active plate size = 29.987,41 mm3 volume

SD downcomers = 22mm = 1.520,53 mm3 volume

29.987,41 - 1.520,53 = 28.466,88 mm3 volume = wet active plate area between 2pc 4” ferrules with 1pc SD downcomer subtracted

Hole  | Volume | % to number of holes
===============================================================================================
1,5mm |   7,07 | 7% = 281pc | 8% = 322pc | 9% = 362pc | 10% = 402pc (this is what a think is max)
1,6mm |   8,04 | 7% = 247pc | 8% = 283pc | 9% = 318pc
1,7mm |   9,08 | 6% = 188pc | 7% = 219pc | 8% = 250pc
1,8mm |  10,18 | 6% = 167pc | 7% = 195pc
1,9mm |  11,34 | 6% = 150pc | 7% = 175pc
2,0mm |  12,57 | 6% = 135pc | 7% = 158pc

Now you all can't do this wrong

The higher you go up the hole % the lower the liquid level on the plates, probably 10-12mm is appropriate if over 8%, but also the number of plates = many plates less liquid level on plate, this also matters .. something that must be determined in real life ...

Cheers

harley

Here's a link to Gert Strand commercial side, where there is also activated carbon for commercial use, and a lot of other parts and data ... and it,s in English

Gert Strand AB - Distillery Ingredients
Gert Strand AB - Carbon GC / Product Information

Cheers

harley

This is Best choise for hobby use : 1,5mm hole 7%= 281pc,

and this is Okey for hobby use: 1,6mm hole=7%= 247pc,

Don`t go bigger than 1,6mm in hole and 7% if you dont have relly much power and relly cold water to reflux cooler.... and all this calculation is for a plate between 2pc 4” ferrules and with 1pc SD downcomers-return and NO hole inside returncaps that are sitting on the underside of plate and this can be seen as they dashed holes around the return pipe on my drawing...

. All my calculations are based on the hole size is accurate and it is what happens when you punch all the holes, how the precision is when laser drilling, normally drilling or water cut, I can not answer but I have tried to laser drilling all those little holes in the copper and it did not work for it began to boil in the copper plate.

Cheers

harley

Update:

Now all the controls for both digesters-boilerna as reflux coolers solved and the last delivery from Swede's Custom Control Systems is on the way with a reflux panel capable of controlling 3pc different - separate columns and obviously adapted for Swedish conditions, currents, etc. ..

Dephlegmator Control Center

Swede has supplied all my control panels so it will be interesting to see how this plays together, this is the panel number 4 from him.

2pc "twins" that control 3pc 5500watts element and 1pc that control 6pc 5500watts element with all functions that Swede have in them with auto and variable control and more....

Cheers

P.S. This panel is only for controlling 2pc column, my new is for 3pc....

harley

@RedDoorDistillery I think that this is what you need to relly get yours lovley 8" sieve plates glass column to works to 100% and give same resultate every time... cheers

harley

Cheers Update: Then my automatic reflux panel from Swede regulating reflux cooler water temp in 3 pc columns come up to me here in FKP.

Dephlegmator Control Center

Now a think that a have everyting in controllpanel that a need...

Cheers

harley

My next refluxcooler in 8”

Here I have hand drawn a different solution based on 25 mm tube inside and increased the number from today 8pc which is 25mm inside to 16pc = doubled the number of tubes and intends to also extend all pipes from 20cm to 25cm.

This solution should provide a better and more equal flow of water through the reflux cooler than the last sketch and theoretically this should performance be able to receive More than twice as much power as "original" with 8pc 25mm pipe and 20cm hight as the only proven able to hold back about 11 000watt at a water temperature of about 15 degrees.

This solution should be able to hold back just over 24,000 to 25 000watt with 15 degree cooling water ... 5cm increase in length also makes this to ... I think and hope...

(the hole in the sketch is 30 mm for I had nothing less to draw after)

Swedish 28mm copperpipe is 25mm inside, and copper is what a shall use.

I will have my water input into the bottom on one side and the output at the top of the opposite side, I think it is enough with 1 input and 1 output in my case because I really have access to about 8 degrees celcius coolant now at the height of summer

This "feel good" it shall be intressting to se if it is good allso ;-)

Cheers

harley

As you can see in my previous photo, so I shall not have any tube that the temp sensor is in, but it only gets a 1/2 threaded socket on the outside of the reflux condenser and a hole in the column wall that this sensor need, and then you get so exact values-numbers as ​​possible ...

Cheers

harley

@harley said: My next refluxcooler in 8”

Here I have hand drawn a different solution based on 25 mm tube inside and increased the number from today 8pc which is 25mm inside to 16pc = doubled the number of tubes and intends to also extend all pipes from 20cm to 25cm.

This solution should provide a better and more equal flow of water through the reflux cooler than the last sketch and theoretically this should performance be able to receive More than twice as much power as "original" with 8pc 25mm pipe and 20cm hight as the only proven able to hold back about 11 000watt at a water temperature of about 15 degrees.

This solution should be able to hold back just over 24,000 to 25 000watt with 15 degree cooling water ... 5cm increase in length also makes this to ... I think and hope...

(the hole in the sketch is 30 mm for I had nothing less to draw after)

Swedish 28mm copperpipe is 25mm inside, and copper is what a shall use.

I will have my water input into the bottom on one side and the output at the top of the opposite side, I think it is enough with 1 input and 1 output in my case because I really have access to about 8 degrees celcius coolant now at the height of summer

This "feel good" it shall be intressting to se if it is good allso ;-)

Cheers Additions:

I will increase the length to 30 cm instead of 25 cm and in this way I hope to save water and increase efficiency even more.

Cheers

harley

Update:

Now I have added a little more time on reflux cooler and come up with a solution that will suit me best, and everything will be in copper ...

This is an 8 "and 12" will be one lap further with cooling tubes, otherwise identical ...

Cheers

harley

Updating.
Then we had begin with local again ...

Cheers

harley

Interesting filter construction for filter grain or vete mash from mashtun on the way to the fermenter….

Tri Clover Compatible Strainer/Filter

Cheers

Myles

Harley, Your reflux condenser has quite a big volume relative to the coolant path through it. Do you not think you might need baffle plates to force the coolant to take a Z shaped path between the inlet and outlet?

There is a possibility that the coolant might take a relatively direct diagonal path and the coolant might not mix very well in the extremities opposite the inlet and outlet.

A lot depends on your coolant flow rate, but at low flows it might be an issue. The alternative might be a single plate just above the inlet with holes a few mm bigger than each vapour tube. This would redirect the coolant to flow vertically around each vapour tube.

I don't know if it is needed but it is just something for you to think about. Although you probably have enough things to consider at the moment, and don't need me throwing more ideas your way.

harley

@Myles said: Harley, Your reflux condenser has quite a big volume relative to the coolant path through it. Do you not think you might need baffle plates to force the coolant to take a Z shaped path between the inlet and outlet?

There is a possibility that the coolant might take a relatively direct diagonal path and the coolant might not mix very well in the extremities opposite the inlet and outlet.

A lot depends on your coolant flow rate, but at low flows it might be an issue. The alternative might be a single plate just above the inlet with holes a few mm bigger than each vapour tube. This would redirect the coolant to flow vertically around each vapour tube.

I don't know if it is needed but it is just something for you to think about. Although you probably have enough things to consider at the moment, and don't need me throwing more ideas your way.

I have all thought about this and come to the conclusion that this is probably not needed when you have so externally low gas velocity which I supposed to have with all these copper tubes and the length of the reflux condenser will have ... and copper transfers heat - cool much more efficiently than ss makes ...

It would certainly be more optimally with 18-20mm pipe (if it has been in ss and about 30cm high) but then there will be such an extremely large number of reflux tube so I choose to continue with my 25mm (inner) tube in copper and ... increases the length to 25 cm to compensate for the the coarseness ...

The water shall likely to go really slowly through the reflux condensermade of copper and even at full reflux for about 33 000watt so it will probably not consumed a lot of water .... so it'll be no problem with this with "tubning - poor dissemination" I hope .. We shall se this later...

Simply summarized, ... it is about to oversize reflux cooler so you can have an extremely low water flow through this and then learn cooling water spread throughout the reflux condenser by itself .... and hot water rises ...

The difference between copper and ss is extremely large in management - cooling capacity ... so if it is in SS then need all pipe to be smaller, longer and a lot more of them... I think....

Cheers

harley

Uppdate:

Concrete next week...

Cheers

harley

@RedDoorDistillery, here can you see how I have solved the "roof" for my sensor pipe so NO REFLUX can give me wrong data....

Cheers

RedDoorDistillery

I see. Not sure if it will really be that much of an issue. But something to consider.

moscca

Nice harley, something I will use. But when I look good at the were the nipple is welded I see that the SS is burnt because of the welding outside. This will corrode and I don't know what will happen when in contact with ethanol. Welding thin SS should always be done with a backing gas (argon) to protect the SS when you have no more access later on to clean. You seal the pipe with tape and put a hose with argon supply in the lowest part (argon is havier than air) and on top you make a few holes to let the argon escape.

M.