DIY Controller?

CothermanDistilling

@nitris - the DYI SSR is like a remote controlled valve... yes it gets warm, just a few watts dissipated, but that is a function of what it is doing, not due to it taking power instead of the element.

Kapea

@Lloyd said: You ever change a bottle of electricity in mid-run? No. Ever run out of a bottle of electricity and discover your spare bottle is empty?

Nope, and never had to change a bottle of propane out mid-run either. I plan better than that.

But, if you have to restrict your runs to a six hour period on sunny days, or pay 52 cents per kilowatt hour to buy power, you soon the recognize the economy of running a propane ($3.75/gallon) fired boiler.

grim

And here I was thinking paying 16.5 cents was bad.

Kapea

It truly is the far side of BFE out here. A loooong way to ship fuel...

Mickiboi

They do make modulating gas valves, I have some in my shed. They are 1/2" and couple to a Landis and Gyr RWF and LFL1 flame control module, they should modulate down to 3/4 kg an hour. I just don't like the idea of naked flame near combustible gas.

Nitris

@fadge said: Yep the voltage is wired on the output, the current is donut sensor you just pass one of the output wires through it. I will see if l have a pic anywhere later on. I also have a indicator light on the output, aka element on light.

Fadge

Cheers Fadge I'll totally be all over that.

Nitris

@grim

Cheers Grim good to know someone else felt my pain at some point :)

crozdog

@nitris, sorry for the mis-information in my response - at least it generated some good open dialogue :-)

fadge

Seeing how low the controller will go, on a stripping run, 2 x 3600w elements, one direct, one on the controller. As stated a few times, you start high then wind back, otherwise it wont kick in until the "trigger" point.

fadge

frodo

Those SSR with heat sync get kind of warm, you guys are not adding a computer fan to keep it cool?

Unsensibel

@frodo heatsink it

frodo

@Unsensibel said: frodo heatsink it

LOL LOL IT IS !!!!!!!!! and a fan

Unsensibel

Timing of posting in multiple threads ;)

frodo

I like the lite up buttons on @fadge's controller..
I wonder if I can find press to test lock top toggles
like we used on planes in the service

fadge

Those light up indicators are great as you can see if the controller is powered up and in operation from a fair distance. Mine has one on the main switch for on/off the other for element active or on.

Fadge

Jussi

Hi guys! First post here,

Just finished my DIY controller, works as intended but causes some buzzing noise when regulating power, do you guys experience that too, or is it something wrong with my gear/wiring?

Greetings from North

Tombstone

@Jussi said: Just finished my DIY controller, works as intended but causes some buzzing noise when regulating power, do you guys experience that too, or is it something wrong with my gear/wiring?

when did SD start selling them

Unsensibel

@Jussi - buzzing not a good sign. Could be your power meter (my first one went up in smoke).

@Tombstone - since I started with SD (>2yrs ago)

Jussi

@Unsensibel said: Jussi - buzzing not a good sign. Could be your power meter (my first one went up in smoke).

Tombstone - since I started with SD (>2yrs ago)

Thanks for reply, Weird thing is that neither my 'plastic boiler' or my regular tea-water boiler is buzzing like this when I'm regulating the power, maybe a faint noise if you put your ear against the control box, but the beer keg with heater does sound pretty load, maybe the heating element on that one is too sensitive? Cheers

mlobarr

USA could someone show me how to wire up a controller for two 4500 heating elements with a fan and a meter, thanks in advance. Oh 220 volt.

Tombstone

@Unsensibel said: Tombstone - since I started with SD (>2yrs ago)

I new there did them but not like that or have you add stuff to it? How much it cost all uo?

Unsensibel

@mlobarr said: USA could someone show me how to wire up a controller for two 4500 heating elements with a fan and a meter, thanks in advance. Oh 220 volt.

Follow the manual. If you want two elements, you have to double the components up. I'd get the large box

Jussi

Here's how it sounds when adjusting the power.

Buzzing @ vidme

Jussi

@Tombstone said: I new there did them but not like that or have you add stuff to it? How much it cost all uo?

I used my own box, heatzink and stuff, just ordered the ssr, pot & label from SD.

jacksonbrown

Does using a zero crossing SSR make a diff?

grim

Is the buzzing primarily from the element/boiler or from the controller? Based on the other post, I'm thinking boiler?

I've seen elements buzz - is your element screwed in or are you using an element guard/triclamp? If threads, you can try snugging it, ever so slightly. If you are using element guard, rotate the element by 1/4 turn in either direction.

Make sure all of your wiring connections are snug, ssr to heatsink connection snug, etc. You might want to get a small flashlight and inspect all of your connections for signs of arcing.

Jussi

@grim said: Is the buzzing primarily from the element/boiler or from the controller? Based on the other post, I'm thinking boiler?

I've seen elements buzz - is your element screwed in or are you using an element guard/triclamp? If threads, you can try snugging it, ever so slightly. If you are using element guard, rotate the element by 1/4 turn in either direction.

Make sure all of your wiring connections are snug, ssr to heatsink connection snug, etc. You might want to get a small flashlight and inspect all of your connections for signs of arcing.

It's primary from the element, its screwed in to a triclamp connection. Yesterday I took it apart from the boiler and had it standing on its own in a water bath, still buzzing.

Is anyone using some kind of 'filters' after their SSR's?

grim

Rotate the element by 1/4 turn, if it's a harmonic resonance issue, this should make it go away (singing/ringing element).

Tighten the threaded connection every so slightly, if it is a mechanical buzz.

Check your element wiring connections to be ABSOLUTELY SURE you have no arcing - it could be very small - since strand of wire and a tiny arc. ARCs will buzz.

There really isn't much you can do on the output of an SSR - if you are thinking like LC or RC snubber circuitry. It doesn't matter much because it's a purely resistive load. Even trying to power these things with DC - (like a TIG welder) - would hum.

Most filters associated with this kind of thing are on the input line, and the purpose is to prevent electrical noise from the SSR making its way to other electrical devices in the general area.

50hz mains hum is louder than 60z mains hum. You are in an area where you are using 50hz?

Jussi

@grim said: Rotate the element by 1/4 turn, if it's a harmonic resonance issue, this should make it go away (singing/ringing element).

Tighten the threaded connection every so slightly, if it is a mechanical buzz.

Check your element wiring connections to be ABSOLUTELY SURE you have no arcing - it could be very small - since strand of wire and a tiny arc. ARCs will buzz.

There really isn't much you can do on the output of an SSR - if you are thinking like LC or RC snubber circuitry. It doesn't matter much because it's a purely resistive load. Even trying to power these things with DC - (like a TIG welder) - would hum.

Most filters associated with this kind of thing are on the input line, and the purpose is to prevent electrical noise from the SSR making its way to other electrical devices in the general area.

50hz mains hum is louder than 60z mains hum. You are in an area where you are using 50hz?

Thanks, I'll report if it helps!
Yes, we have 50hz here.
It's pretty load as you can hear here.

mlobarr

@unsensible the manuel does not have a fan or a meter.